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Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
15/06/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati climbs Action Directe in the Frankenjura
18 year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Action Directe, the legendary 9a sport climb established by Wolfgang Güllich in Germany’s Frankenjura in 1991.
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Enrico Baistrocchi: California, climbing, work and a touch of nostalgia
06/06/2016 - Climbing
Enrico Baistrocchi: California, climbing, work and a touch of nostalgia
At Mt. Woodson, San Diego, California, where Enrico Baistrocchi moved to work as a route setter and climbing coach, the Italian climber has made the first ascent of Ancora Vivo, at V12 the hardest boulder problem in the area and also developed the new sector called Little Italy.
Jon Cardwell climbs Biographie at Céüse in France
30/05/2016 - Climbing
Jon Cardwell climbs Biographie at Céüse in France
At Ceuse in France Jon Cardwell has redpointed Biographie, the famous 9a+ sports climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001.
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
25/05/2016 - Climbing
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
In autumn 2015 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Traverso al Cielo, a new multi-pitch climb up the South face of Peitlerkofel, Dolomites. Simon Kehrer reports.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
16/05/2016 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Rhapsody in Scotland
Interview with South Tyrolean climber Jacopo Larcher who repeated Rhapsody, one of the hardest trad climbs in the world, on 7 May 2016 at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
06/05/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism and caving: underground ice climbing at Brezno pod Velbom
Out of the ordinary mountaineering in Slovenia: Luca Vallata recalls the ascent, carried out together with Matteo Rivadossi and Andrea Tocchini, of one of the longest and most continuous ice climbs in the Eastern Alps. The icefall is not located in the mountains, but inside a mountain, namely in the...
Giorgio Bendazzoli redpoints L'Attimo 9a at Covolo
05/05/2016 - Climbing
Giorgio Bendazzoli redpoints L'Attimo 9a at Covolo
16-year-old climber Giorgio Bendazzoli has repeated L'Attimo, a 9a sports climb at Covolo (Italy).
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the reconnaissance phase is longer than expected.
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
19/04/2016 - Events
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti, the historical organisers of Melloblocco, talk about the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016. Over 1300 climbers are set to take part in the 13th...
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
From 17 - 19 March 2016 German climber Fabian Buhl made a solo ascent of Wetterbock, a 10-pitch 8c freed in 2014 by Alexander Huber up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.
Anak Verhoeven beats the Bronx at Orgon
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Anak Verhoeven beats the Bronx at Orgon
Anak Verhoeven from Belgium has made what might well be the first female ascent of the historic 8c+ sports climb Bronx at Orgon in France.
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young sport.
Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Patagonia: the glaciers 100 years on
15/04/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Patagonia: the glaciers 100 years on
The expedition in Patagonia led by Italian photographer Fabiano Ventura to document the effects of over 100 years of climate change as part of multi-year project "On the trails of the glaciers" has taken photos of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre and compared them to those taken by Alberto Maria...
Paul Pritchard and the crowdfunding campaign for the Totem Pole film
13/04/2016 - Climbing
Paul Pritchard and the crowdfunding campaign for the Totem Pole film
A film documenting Paul Pritchard and the Totem Pole, the famous sea stack in Tasmania, is in the pipeline. A crowdfunding campaign for this project has now been launched.