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Dreams and magic, Lugano celebrates an evening of alpinism and adventure
03/10/2013 - Events
Dreams and magic, Lugano celebrates an evening of alpinism and adventure
On Friday 15 November 15 Lugano (CH) will host Dreams and magic: breathtaking adventures from the Rätikon limestone to the glaciers of the Antarctic Peninsula with Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat, Romulus Nottaris and Simon Anthamatten. This year celebrates the 15th anniversary of the death of Delio Ossola and all proceeds...
Just us and the wind. Vertical adventures beyond the Arctic Circle
03/10/2013 - Climbing
Just us and the wind. Vertical adventures beyond the Arctic Circle
The report of the beautiful climbing trip up North, between the sea and the rock faces on the Lofoten island, Norway. By Giovanni Zaccaria and Alice Lazzaro.
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
27/09/2013 - Interviews
New route up Monte Sarmiento East: the second after this historic 1956 first ascent by Mauri and Maffei
Interview with Chilean alpinist Camilo Rada after the first ascent, carried out with Natalia Martinez from Argentina, of a new route up the North Face of Monte Sarmiento in Patagonia. Suerte de Sarmiento is only the second route to the East summit after the first ascent carried out by Clemente...
Destination Annapurna South Face for Ueli Steck and Don Bowie
23/09/2013 - Alpinism
Destination Annapurna South Face for Ueli Steck and Don Bowie
Ueli Steck from Switzerland and Don Bowie from Canada are currently on their way to the South Face Base Camp of Annapurna 8091m (Nepal, Himalaya) where they will attempt to climb one of the most difficult and dangerous faces in the Himalaya.
Great Trango Tower: Raganowicz and Tomaszewski climb Bushido
20/09/2013 - Interviews
Great Trango Tower: Raganowicz and Tomaszewski climb Bushido
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who talks about the new big wall Bushido (VII– A4 VII+), established together with Marcin Tomaszewski up Great Trango Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan.
A Fish as a present. Attraverso il Pesce by Maurizio Oviglia
11/09/2013 - Alpinism
A Fish as a present. Attraverso il Pesce by Maurizio Oviglia
A legendary rock climb as a birthday present: via Attraverso il Pesce, the Fish route up the South Face of Marmolada. A pretext to remember once again that climbing and alpinism are a never ending evolution between dreams and reality.
Barbara Zangerl makes first female repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider
09/09/2013 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl makes first female repeat of Des Kaisers neue Kleider
On 5/09/2013 Barbara Zangerl repeated, climbing together with Jacopo Larcher, Des Kaisers neue Kleider (240m, 8b+) on Wilder Kaiser in Austria.
Wind of change at the 2013 edition of The North Face Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc
04/09/2013 - Competitions
Wind of change at the 2013 edition of The North Face Ultra-Trail du Mont-Blanc
The imposing squad of the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc kept spreading under the stars of the Chamonix night. Until 14:30 on Sunday afternoon, each competitor fought fight to pass the final line of the main race on time to be part of the legend. Like Rory Bosio and Xavier...
By no means a walkover: Barbier - Bourgeois up Torre del Lago, with Ivo Ferrari
21/08/2013 - Alpinism
By no means a walkover: Barbier - Bourgeois up Torre del Lago, with Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari retraces the route established by Claude Barbier and Jean Bourgeois on Torre del Lago (Fanis group, Dolomites) on 4 August 1964.
Patrick Gabarrou, an interview with the great alpinist and Mont Blanc connaisseur
19/08/2013 - Interviews
Patrick Gabarrou, an interview with the great alpinist and Mont Blanc connaisseur
Patrick Gabarrou was born in 1951 close to Paris in France and the routes first climbed by this alpinist, philosopher and mountain guide are integral parts of the history of Mont Blanc. The following interview was carried out by don Daniele D'Elia and Ronald Gumiel during the recent series of...
Via Bonatti on Croz del Rifugio, a rediscovery above Bardonecchia
14/08/2013 - Alpinism
Via Bonatti on Croz del Rifugio, a rediscovery above Bardonecchia
Edoardo Falletta talks about his discovery of Via Bonatti, established by Walter Bonatti solo in 1951 up Croz del Rifugio above Bardonecchia in Piemonte, Italy.
Mysterious Dolomites:  Ivo Ferrari and the climb Gianni Ribaldone on Spiz di Mezzo
05/08/2013 - Alpinism
Mysterious Dolomites: Ivo Ferrari and the climb Gianni Ribaldone on Spiz di Mezzo
Ivo Ferrari and the route Gianni Ribaldone, established on Spiz di Mezzo in the Zoldo Dolomites by H. Steinkötter and A. Mazzenga.
Luca Pandolfi and the Sentinel Rouge Couloir on Mont Blanc
Luca Pandolfi and the Sentinel Rouge Couloir on Mont Blanc
Luca Pandolfi talks about his descent of Grand Couloir of Sentinelle Rouge, carried out with Ben Briggs and Tom Grant on 5 July 2013.
Uli Biaho new Trango climb by the Ragni di Lecco
22/07/2013 - Alpinism
Uli Biaho new Trango climb by the Ragni di Lecco
Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach have safely reached Base Camp after having forged a new route up the West Face of Uli Biaho (6109m), Trango, Pakistan.
James McHaffie repeats The Indian Face at Cloggy
11/07/2013 - Climbing
James McHaffie repeats The Indian Face at Cloggy
On 9 July James McHaffie made the fifth ascent of The Indian Face, E9 6c on Cloggy, Wales.
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
10/07/2013 - Alpinism
Beauty and the Beast, first ascent on Alaska's Gargoyle
In Alaska's Ruth Gorge the Austrians Alex Bluemel and Gerry Fiegl have made the first ascent of Beauty and the Beast (7a+ 650m A3) on the Gargoyle. Shortly afterwards the two Tyrolean mountaineers made the first repeat of the long Tooth Traverse. Gerry Fiegl provides the report.

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