1383 News found

On Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites (Italy) Paolo Baroldi, Filippo Mosca and Francesco Salvaterra have established Pilastro Nord, a new 700m rock climb that completes and attempt carried out in 1981 by Gianni Giudicati and Piercarlo Berta.

German climbers Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl have made the first free ascent of 'Sueños de Invierno' (540m, 8a), the rock climb first ascended in 1983 by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives up Naranjo de Bulnes / Picu Urriellu (2518m) in Spain.

On the East Face of Col de Stagn (Sella group, Dolomites) Andrea Oberbacher and Francesco Tremolada have made the first ascent of 'Jeo' (7a max, 6b+ obligatory, 185m).

Maurizio Oviglia explores the fascinating climbing history of Tavolara Island, off the NE coast of Sardinia, and repeats 'Affora sa nato’ (6b, 215m) first ascended by Enzo Lecis and Simone Sarti in the ’90’s.

Italian climber Silvio Reffo reports about the first one day free ascent, carried out on 16/10/2016, of Horror Vacui (8b+, 180m), the multi-pitch sports climb established by Rolando Larcher in spring 2015 at the Scoglio dei Ciclopi, Monte Cimo (Val d’Adige).

The video of Pana (8b, 300m) the new multi-pitch sports climb established by Simone Pedeferri and Daniele Bianchi up the huge and secluded Mongolfiera cliff Val Masino (Italy).

Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni Battimelli.

In January 2016 Alexander Huber made the first ascent, alone, of Onda Azzurra up Monte Donneneittu at Codula di Luna in Sardinia. 240m high and with difficulties up to 8a+, this multi-pitch sports climb was freed by Huber together with Michael Althammer in April 2016.

Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.

Manuel Baumgartner reports about PukaNaka (7b+, 325m) a new route he climbed with Martin Baumgartner and Toni Oboles up the SW Face of Sas Tamersc (Fanes, Dolomites).

The video of Jacopo Larcher repeating Rhapsody, the superbly difficult trad climb at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland.

In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.

Slovenian climber Martina Cufar has redpointed her second 8c sports climb, 'Max power' at Bionnassay, France.

The short film 'A Brief, Biased History of Big Wall Climbing' animated by Jeremy Collins and narrated by Timmy O’Neill.

On Hoher Göll in the Berchtesgadener Alps, German rock climber and alpinist Ines Papert has repeated Scaramouche (300m, 8a), a rarely repeated climb put up by the Huber brothers in 1989.

In August 2016 French alpinists Arnaud Bayol, Antoine Bletton, Cyril Duchene and Dimitry Munoz established 'El Juego Sumando' ( 400m, ED 7b max, 6b/A2 obligatory) on the North Face of Puscanturpa Este in the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru.