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Turkey ice climbing Festival at Erzurum. The report by Anna Torretta
03/02/2015 - Alpinism
Turkey ice climbing Festival at Erzurum. The report by Anna Torretta
From 21 to 25 January 2015, Turkey’s first-ever international ice climbing festival took place at Erzurum (Anatolia). Participants included Anna Torretta (a Mountain guide from Courmayeur) and Spain’s Cecilia Buil who made the first ascents of two beautiful icefalls: Anatolia Pillar, WI6 100m, in Cevizli valley and Sugar couloir (seker...
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
15/01/2015 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
On 14 January 2015, after 19 days on the wall and years of efforts, American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the historic first free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA. Almost 1000m high and with two pitches graded 5.14d (9a), this is probably the hardest...
Sara Grippo, This isn't a dream
28/12/2014 - Climbing
Sara Grippo, This isn't a dream
Italian climber Sara Grippo shares her life experience in this short film This isn't a dream.
Crag certification and classification, bolter responsibilities and training: the French example and Philipp Brass interview
19/12/2014 - Climbing
Crag certification and classification, bolter responsibilities and training: the French example and Philipp Brass interview
Interview with Philippe Brass, mountain guide and expert new routes, about crag certification and classification, the responsibilities new bolters have the the training they receive. By Maurizio Oviglia
Sea cliff crags at risk: climbing ban or rebolting?
15/12/2014 - Climbing
Sea cliff crags at risk: climbing ban or rebolting?
Maurizio Oviglia analyses the recent case of the sea cliff sports crag “Casarotto” at Capo Caccia, Alghero, Sardinia.
The myths and legends of alpinism: dreaming about Hermann and his bicycle
09/12/2014 - Alpinism
The myths and legends of alpinism: dreaming about Hermann and his bicycle
Ivo Ferrari and Hermann the "cyclist-alpinist", fiction and facts and the story, completely dreamt up, about the legend of alpinism.
Quicklyquickly up Spigolo Nord, Monte Agner. By Ivo Ferrari
03/12/2014 - Alpinism
Quicklyquickly up Spigolo Nord, Monte Agner. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari remembers the solo ascent up the infinite Spigolo Nord on Monte Agnèr, Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites. A majestic 1600m high route, first climbed in 1932 by Celso Gilberti and Oscar Soravito, considered to be the longest rock climb in the Dolomites.
Rolwaling valley in Nepal, a family expedition. By Maurizio Oviglia
02/12/2014 - Alpinism
Rolwaling valley in Nepal, a family expedition. By Maurizio Oviglia
The Rolwaling valley in Nepal, Yalung Ri (5630m) and an expedition with family and friends to enjoy an adventure, a journey, nature and friendship. By Maurizio Oviglia
Shampoo Dry, drytooling at Champorcher, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
28/11/2014 - Alpinism
Shampoo Dry, drytooling at Champorcher, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
Enrico Bonino introduces Shampoo Dry, the new drytooling crag above Champorcher, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
San Vito Lo Capo: the Stefan Rass climbing accident and the appeal for donations. By Elio Bonfanti
27/11/2014 - Climbing
San Vito Lo Capo: the Stefan Rass climbing accident and the appeal for donations. By Elio Bonfanti
On 16/11/2014 at San Vito Lo Capo, Italy, Stefan Rass from Austria had a terrible climbing accident and he is currently in induced coma at Salzburg. Published below is an appeal for donations for his young family as well as a short text by Elio Bonfanti who helped Rass immediately...
Gabriele Moroni: from competitions to Goldrake, sport climbing in his DNA
20/11/2014 - Interviews
Gabriele Moroni: from competitions to Goldrake, sport climbing in his DNA
Interview with Italian climber Gabriele Moronim from his first competitions to when he won bronze in the 2004 European Bouldering Championship in 2004, via his bouldering and sport climbing which recently netted him the redpoint of Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba, Italy.
Alpine climbs in China by Simon Gietl, Daniel Tavernini and Vittorio Messini
19/11/2014 - Alpinism
Alpine climbs in China by Simon Gietl, Daniel Tavernini and Vittorio Messini
In October 2014 Simon Gietl, Daniel Tavernini and Vittorio Messini carried out a series of alpine ascents in the Minya Konka massif, Sichuan, China.
Ivan Peri reaches Monte Carlo after walking for 80 days Across the Alps
13/11/2014 - Interviews
Ivan Peri reaches Monte Carlo after walking for 80 days Across the Alps
The interview with Ivan Peri on reaching Monte Carlo, Principality of Monaco, and his traverse across the Alps in 80 days. By Teddy Soppelsa for Good For Alps, magazine AKU trekking & outdoor footwear
Rustam Gelmanov, rock climbing and rock music
11/11/2014 - Climbing
Rustam Gelmanov, rock climbing and rock music
The climbing of Rustam Gelmanov applied to the Indie rock of Georgiy Kotunov and Ruslan Gadzhimuradov.
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
10/11/2014 - Climbing
Val Chiavenna: climbing at Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone
The crags Mezzera, Scilano and Caprone in Val Chiavenna, Italy, introduced by Enrico Baistrocchi and Matteo Deghi, with the photos by Massimo Malpezzi. In memory of Davide Grassi.
Cordillera Huayhuash, new routes in Peru for Carlo Cosi and Davide Cassol
28/10/2014 - Alpinism
Cordillera Huayhuash, new routes in Peru for Carlo Cosi and Davide Cassol
Report by Carlo Cosi on three first ascents in the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru: Laurpaq and La zuppa di Pio on the untouched NW face of Jurauraju 5330m and La Siesta del Bodacious on the SW face of Jurau.

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