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Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
18/01/2017 - Alpinism
Erich Abram, farewell to the last Italian K2 mountaineer
South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
16/01/2017 - Alpinism
Presolana: Natali and Panseri pull off important first winter ascent in Bergamasque Prealps
Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the North Face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.
Kyzyl Asker, the short film of Ines Papert and Luka Lindič in Kyrgyzstan
11/01/2017 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker, the short film of Ines Papert and Luka Lindič in Kyrgyzstan
The short film of Luka Lindič e Ines Papert and their first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec
11/01/2017 - Alpinism
Škrlatica in Slovenia sees first winter ascents by Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec
In December 2016 Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec made the first winter ascents of two summer routes up the North Face of Mt Škrlatica in Slovenia. In their winter version these routes offer outstanding and challenging winter climbing in one of the most beautiful and remote corners of the Julian...
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
09/01/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe's Eiger Metanoia finally repeated by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli
From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the North Face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
28/12/2016 - Alpinism
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
On 23 December 2016 on the Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz completed a beautiful winter trilogy by climbing Via Comici-Dimai up Cima Grande (in 2:30), Via Cassin up Cima Ovest (in 3:25), and Spigolo Giallo up Cima Piccola (in 1:28). The South...
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski Titanic video
24/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski Titanic video
The video of Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski making the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland).
Pizzo Badile Nordest supercombo, new mixed combination by David Hefti and Marcel Schenk
23/12/2016 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile Nordest supercombo, new mixed combination by David Hefti and Marcel Schenk
On 16/12/2016 the two Swiss mountain guides David Hefti and Marcel Schenk climbed the ice and mixed combination 'Nordest supercombo' (800m, M7, R) a demanding line that joins Via Cassin with via Memento Mori up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.
Ski mountaineering and Speed Riding in the Georgian Dolomites
Ski mountaineering and Speed Riding in the Georgian Dolomites
The film documenting the ski mountaineering and speed riding expedition to the Chauki Dolomites in Georgia, undertaken in earlier this year by Wolfgang Hell, Aaron Durogati, Daniel Ladurner and Alessandro d’Emilia.
Directissima / The splendour of winter climbing in Quebec
20/12/2016 - Alpinism
Directissima / The splendour of winter climbing in Quebec
The film Directissima directed by Louis Rousseau the shows the areas Saguenay (Cap Trinité) and Charlevoix (Mont du Gros Bras) and the beauty of winter mountaineering in Quebec, Canada.
Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner discover new ice climbs in Iceland
16/12/2016 - Alpinism
Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner discover new ice climbs in Iceland
Ice climbing: in February 2016 the Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner established a flurry of new ice climbs in Iceland, including Tröll leikhus at Austurárdalur, currently the hardest on the island.
Mountaineering: Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel breach unclimbed North Face of Gimmigela East in Nepal
15/12/2016 - Alpinism
Mountaineering: Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel breach unclimbed North Face of Gimmigela East in Nepal
Climbing from 8 - 10 November 2016, the Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel completed the first ascent of the North Face of Gimmigela East (7005m), Nepal.
Pleishornwasserfall, new ice climb on Ortler North Face
15/12/2016 - Alpinism
Pleishornwasserfall, new ice climb on Ortler North Face
On 13 December 2016 Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer made the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall (260m, WI6, M7+, A1), the obvious drip that plunges down the Northeast Face of Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in Italy’s South Tyrol.
Hochbirghöhe: new ice and mixed climb in Austria’s High Tauern
14/12/2016 - Alpinism
Hochbirghöhe: new ice and mixed climb in Austria’s High Tauern
The report by Vittorio Messini who together with Isidor Poppeller and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of 'Mehr denn je Hintersee' (800m, M7+ WI6+ 08/12/2016), a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Hochbirghöhe (2767m), High Tauern, Austria.
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
13/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face / Tom Ballard Titanic interview
Interview with British alpinist Tom Ballard after the first ascent of ‘Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 2000m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland), first ascended together with Marcin Tomaszewski from 29 November to 6 December 2016.
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
06/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
Mountaineering: from 29 November to 6 December 2016 Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of 'Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 1800m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland).