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Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on Civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario
08/03/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on Civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario
On 03/03/2021 on Civetta, Dolomites, the two Italian mountain guides Nicola Tondini and Lorenzo D’Addario made the first winter ascent of Dulcis in fundo.
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
24/02/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital
In Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have established Eremit, a difficult mixed climb protected with trad gear and pegs. Messner reports.
Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India
19/02/2021 - Alpinism
Nubra Valley ice climbing Festival in India
The report about the first ice climbing Meeting that took place in January in the wonderful Nubra Valley, India. This event proved to be important, above all because it’s the first of its kind in the Ladakh region. The report by Ladakh Nomad Expeditions.
Dolomites ice climbing: Cascata Toboga climbed at Pala delle Masenada in Moiazza
28/01/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites ice climbing: Cascata Toboga climbed at Pala delle Masenada in Moiazza
Climbed on 16 January 2021 by Gianni Del Din and Otello De Toni, the icefall Cascata Toboga at Pala delle Masenade in Moiazza (Dolomites) is the winter version of the summer rock climb first ascended in 1989 by Giuliano De Marchi and Anna Sommavilla. Del Din reports while the topo...
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
21/12/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer add mixed climbs to Großer Greiner in Zillertal Alps
Earlier this autumn alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer established two new mixed routes, Käse-Greiner and Nordwandrampe, on the north face of Großer Greiner in Austria’s Zillertal Alps.
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
18/11/2020 - Alpinism
Sagzahn Verschneidung, first repeat in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, David Bruder
On 11 November 2020 Martin Feistl and David Bruder made the first repeat and first free ascent of Sagzahnverschneidung, the difficult mixed route in the Valsertal in Austria established in 2018 by David Lama and Peter Mühlberger.
Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle
The film Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle, dedicated to the Canadian ice climbing guru who died in 2009.
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest
Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
24/06/2020 - Alpinism
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites
Enrico Maioni, Cortina Mountain Guide, introduces Wolkenreise, a multi-pitch alpine sports climb Pilastro di Misurina in the Cadini Group of the Italian Dolomites, first ascended in 2017 by Peter Manhartsberger and Stefan Kopeinig and dedicated to Florian Thamer.
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
10/06/2020 - Alpinism
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)
Eleonora Delnevo: the sound of the epidemic affecting us all
28/03/2020 - Environment
Eleonora Delnevo: the sound of the epidemic affecting us all
'This is my city. This is Bergamo. This is the sound of the epidemic affecting us all.' Italian mountaineer Eleonora Delnevo shares the pain of her city battling against the coronavirus.
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
02/03/2020 - Climbing
Stefan Scarperi flashes 8B and repeats Bügeleisen 8B+ in Maltatal
During a three-day bouldering stint in Austria’s Maltatal, Stefan Scarperi has sent a handful of testpieces: Bügeleisen 8B+ and Emotional Landscapes stand 8B, as well as a flash ascent of Wrestling with an alligator 8B. All these boulder problems were established by Klem Loskot around the new millennium. Scarperi reports.
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
28/02/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.