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French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Aldo Valmassoi skis Cristallo di Mezzo North Face in the Dolomites
Aldo Valmassoi skis Cristallo di Mezzo North Face in the Dolomites
Italian skier Aldo Valmassoi completed the first ski descent of the north face of Cristallo di Mezzo in the Dolomites. Valmassoi reports.
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
27/04/2021 - Climbing
Rock climbing at Sperlonga featured in Petzl Legend Tour Italy
After the magnificent limestone crags at Finale Ligure, the second stage of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy stops off at Sperlonga, the hotspot for sport climbing development in Central Italy during the 1980’s.
About Tamara Lunger and K2 in winter
02/03/2021 - Alpinism
About Tamara Lunger and K2 in winter
Tamara Lunger from the South Tyrol, Italy, has recently returned home after attempting to climb K2 in winter. The expedition was an important but also tragic experience, marked by the loss of Sergi Mingote, Atanas Skatov, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Juan Pablo Mohr and John Snorri Sigurjónsson.
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
21/12/2020 - Climbing
Petzl Legend Tour Italy, complete movie online
Watch the first episode of Petzl Legend Tour Italia, a journey to Finale Ligure exploring the origins of Italian sport climbing in the 1980's
Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle
The film Vertical Ice: The Spirit of Guy Lacelle, dedicated to the Canadian ice climbing guru who died in 2009.
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo
Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
24/08/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher receives Paul Preuss Award 2020
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
New climb up Cima Cee in Brenta Dolomites by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi
19/06/2020 - Alpinism
New climb up Cima Cee in Brenta Dolomites by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi
On Cima Cee in Val di Tovel, Brenta Dolomites, Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of Fine di un’Epoca, the end of an era, dedicated to Larcher’s father Renato. Larcher provides the report.
Podenzoi, rock climbing in the hanging garden of Longarone. By Sandro Neri
18/05/2020 - Climbing
Podenzoi, rock climbing in the hanging garden of Longarone. By Sandro Neri
Sandro Neri introduces Podenzoi, the historic crag above Longarone (Belluno, Veneto, Italy) discovered in the 1980’s by Gigi Dal Pozzo.
Brenta Dolomites, Sfulmini Ski by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Brenta Dolomites, Sfulmini Ski by Roberto and Luca Dallavalle
Luca Dallavalle reports about his Sunday 8 ski descent with his brother Roberto down a bold line on the west fece of Sfulmini in the Brenta Dolomites, between Torre di Brenta and Campanile Alto.
Dragon Horns Tioman Island, Malaysia Mystery Wall revealed
21/11/2019 - Climbing
Dragon Horns Tioman Island, Malaysia Mystery Wall revealed
Eliza Kubarska provides the latest updates about the climbing on the elusive Mystery Wall situated in the Dragon Horns massif on Tioman Island in Malaysia.
Federica Mingolla, Edoardo Saccaro climb new big wall up Nalumasortoq, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland
08/10/2019 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla, Edoardo Saccaro climb new big wall up Nalumasortoq, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland
On the hitherto unclimbed south face of Middle Pillar of Nalumasortoq above the Tasermiut Fjord in Greenland Italian climbers Federica Mingolla and Edoardo Saccaro have established La Cura, a new big wall with difficulties up to 7b+/A2.
Punta dell'Orco: Beber, Lanzafame and Maganzini ski Canale dell'Orco
Punta dell'Orco: Beber, Lanzafame and Maganzini ski Canale dell'Orco
Marco Maganzini reports about what is likely to be the first ski descent of 'Canale dell'Orco', carried out on 22/03/2019 with Alessandro Beber and Claudio Lanzafame on Punta dell'Orco (3069m) above Val Genova in Adamello massif of the Italian Alps.
Mezzalama 2019 ski mountaineering marathon postponed to Sunday 28 April
Mezzalama 2019 ski mountaineering marathon postponed to Sunday 28 April
The Mezzalama Trophy 2019 has been postponed due to adverse weather conditions. The legendary ski mountaineering competition on Monte Rosa will now take place on Sunday 28 April.
Will Gadd delves beneath Greenland ice
15/03/2019 - Alpinism
Will Gadd delves beneath Greenland ice
Canadian alpinist Will Gadd travels to Greenland with glaciologist Jason Gulley to better understand the movement of meltwater underneath the icecap.

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