90 News found
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
21/07/2021 - Alpinism
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres Alpinists Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin and Alex Torres have made the first ascent of Cerveza, Pan y Ácido, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Concha de Caracol in the Cordillera Vilcanota massif in Peru.
29/12/2020 - Interviews
James Pearson & Caroline Ciavaldini: the Black Rocks Hard Grit interview Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...
28/10/2020 - Alpinism
Sani Pakkush South Face first ascent by Symon Welfringer, Pierrick Fine Climbing in alpine style, from 16 - 20 October 2020 French alpinists Symon Welfringer and Pierrick Fine made the first ascent of the virgin South Face of Sani Pakush, a 6951m peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Welfringer reports about their important ascent which may well be only the second successful...
12/10/2020 - Alpinism
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition In October 2019 an Austrian expedition comprised of Alexander Blümel, Much Mayr, Peter Mühlburger and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Baba Ji on Raldang Spire in the Baspa Valley, Kinnaur, India. Mühlburger reports.
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.
09/09/2020 - Climbing
Orco Easy Crack, an intro to crack climbing in the Orco Valley Maurizio Oviglia introduces a selection of entry-level crack climbs in Valle dell’Orco: Viper, Mamba, Incastromania, Fessura del Tramonto, Fessura Kosterlitz and many others. A step-by-step guide to the trad climbing gems in Valle dell’Orco.
08/07/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
of significant ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22...
18/03/2020 - Climbing
Klaas Willems: Cystic Fibrosis, Coronavirus and why further apart is closer together Extremely talented Belgian climber Klaas Willems, affected by Cystic Fibrosis, appeals to the climbing community to stay at home to decrease the spread of the Coronavirus.
14/02/2020 - Alpinism
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.
15/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs 58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
11/04/2019 - Alpinism
Marco Pedrini, Cumbre and the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in 1985 The 1985 film Cerro Torre Cumbre by Fulvio Mariani that documents the first solo ascent of Cerro Torre in Patagonia, carried out by Swiss alpinist Marco Pedrini on 26/11/1985 via the Cesare Maestri Compressor Route.
07/01/2019 - Alpinism
Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).
26/10/2018 - Alpinism
Big Dutch climbs in Kyrgyzstan Djangart Range In the Djangart Range in Kyrgyzstan, last summer a Dutch mountaineering expedition comprised of Noël Diepens, Line van den Berg, Wout Martens, Rik van Odenhoven, Mats Wentholt, Jorian Bakker, Court Haegens and Boris Textor carried out a series of notable new climbs.
27/09/2018 - Alpinism
Chareze Ri North in India's Rangtik valley climbed by Italians At the end of August 2018 Davide Limongi, Federico Martinelli, Enrico Mosetti, Federico Secchi and Luca Vallata climbed the East Ridge of Chareze Ri North in the Rangtik valley in the Zanskar area of India. Climbed alpine style with one bivouac, Jullay Temù (1000m, 70° ice, V+) reaches the north...
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