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Kachqiant climbed in Pakistan's Hindu Raj by Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher
19/07/2018 - Alpinism
Kachqiant climbed in Pakistan's Hindu Raj by Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher
A five-week climbing trip in June and July 2018 to the Hindu Raj mountain range in Pakistan resulted in the probable first ascent of Kachqiant, a 5990m peak overlooking the Dasbar Valley, by Dutch mountaineers Danny Schoch and Bas Visscher. Climbing partners Ruud Rotte and Menno Schokker made an unsuccessful...
Before and after the Mariacher
02/07/2018 - Climbing
Before and after the Mariacher
90 years La Sportiva. The Mariacher, the violet climbing shoes by La Sportiva that represent an unconditional point of reference in the history of climbing. Not only sport climbing
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
16/08/2017 - Alpinism
Praqpa Ri South, Mirchi Peak, two Chilean Karakorum first ascents
In July 2017 a Chilean expedition comprised of Andres Bosch, Alejandro Mora and Armando Montero has made two first ascents close to Broad Peak and K2 in Pakistan’s Karakorum range: Praqpa Ri South 7046m and the new route Mirchi up Norit Peak, 6270m.
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
24/04/2017 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Shisha Pangma and the lure of unpredictable mountaineering
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, the Italian alpinist and Matterhorn mountain guide who together with Germany’s David Göttler will attempt a new route up the South Face of Shisha Pangma (8027m) in Tibet. Should things go according to plan this would be Barmasse’s first 8000er.
Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
09/08/2016 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
German alpinists Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz and photographer Klaus Fengler have just returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where, on the West Face of The Turret, they managed to repeat and add new free variations to Nuvualik, the climb established in June 1995 by Warren Hollinger, Jerry Gore...
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
30/07/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
On 12 July 2016 Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič reached the summit of Broad Peak. Two weeks later they climbed the Northwest Ridge of Gasherbrum IV, reaching the North Summit (7900m) on 26 July 2016.
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years old. Both were expert alpinists. Iannilli was definitely one of...
Silvretta bouldering in Tyrol, Austria
23/05/2016 - Climbing
Silvretta bouldering in Tyrol, Austria
Claudia Colonia and Alessandro Penna introduce the bouldering area Silvretta in Austria. Located at Galtür at circa 2000m, with its 160 boulders it is considered one of the best summer bouldering areas in the Alps.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
04/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out...
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
29/01/2016 - Climbing
Trad climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces trad crack climbing at Balmanolesca, Italy.
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
21/12/2015 - Climbing
Cadarese trad: 10 crack climbs in Val d'Ossola, Italy
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 10 trad cracks at Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, ideally suited to learn how to crack climb.
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada
25/08/2015 - Alpinism
Mount Malaspina in Canada first ascended by Natalia Martinez and Camilo Rada
On 15 August 2015 Natalia Martinez from Argentina and Camilo Rada from Chile made the first ascent of Mount Malaspina (3,776 meters), Saint Elias Mountains, Yukon, Canada. The two climbed what was reputed to be the "highest named unclimbed mountain of North America" from the North via East col and...
Coffee Break - Chogolisa's roof
29/07/2015 - Alpinism
Coffee Break - Chogolisa's roof
Delving into shapes, the history and the perceived mountains. Daniela Zangrando in her Coffee Break interviews Maxime Guitton, in charge of "Soutien à la création" at the Centre national des arts plastiques (CNAP) in Paris.
Piolet d'Or 2015 and the big list of 58 climbs
20/02/2015 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2015 and the big list of 58 climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2014 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the most prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 9 - 12 April, 2015 at Courmayeur and Chamonix, at the foot of Mont Blanc.

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