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Hanspeter Eisendle wins Paul Preuss award
05/11/2014 - Events
Hanspeter Eisendle wins Paul Preuss award
South Tyrolean alpinist Hanspeter Eisendle was awarded the Paul Preuss prize during the Kiku International Mountain Summit (IMS) at Brixen, Italy.
Hagshu North Face first ascent by Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj
03/11/2014 - Alpinism
Hagshu North Face first ascent by Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj
Between 29 and 30 September 2014, Slovenian alpinists Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj made the first ascent of the North Face of Hagshu (ED, 70°-90°) in the Indian Himalayas.
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
30/10/2014 - Climbing
Happy Ledge in Val Trementina, new climb by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori in Paganella
The report by Rolando Larcher and Nicola Sartori about the first ascent of Happy Ledge (335m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory), a new rock climb in the beautiful Val Trementina, a little jewel in the Paganella crown: Verdon-like, wild and little-known.
Miyar valley, first ascent of Lotus Tower SE Face
22/10/2014 - Alpinism
Miyar valley, first ascent of Lotus Tower SE Face
In August 2014 an expedition comprised of the alpinists Cyrill Bösch, Elias Gmünder, Arunas Kamandulis and Gediminas Simutismade the first ascent of Splitter and Storm (500m, TD 6a), a new route up the unclimbed SE Face of Lotus Tower, Miyar Valley, India. The report by Gediminas Simutis.
Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen
17/10/2014 - Alpinism
Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen
In September 2014 Dres Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of the peaks Shiepra 5885m and Kharagosa 5840m in the Kishtwar region of India's Himalaya. Furthermore, at the start of October the trio climbed a new route up Kishtwar Shivling, making what is believed to be...
Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS
17/10/2014 - Alpinism
Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion? The conference at the Brixen IMS
On Saturday 18 October 18 the International Mountain Summit at Brixen will hold the conference "Clean and Honest Mountaineering: Reality or Illusion?" Organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and its director Dr. Luigi Festi, this conference will attempt to provide a definition to doping in the mountains and set...
GORE-TEX® Experience Tour
14/10/2014 - Alpinism
GORE-TEX® Experience Tour
Experience an intense and unique adventure with the GORE-TEX® Experience Tour: together with world-famous Himalayan alpinist Edurne Pasaban climb in the footsteps of Lucy Walker, the great pioneer of alpinism, to rediscover the beauty of the Alps and the meaning of taking to the mountains.
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
The Grandes Jorasses serac, interview with Michèle Curtaz, Fondazione Montagna Sicura
On 16/09/2014, the Mayor of Courmayeur prohibited access to the path that leads to Rifugio Boccalatte and also the areas below the Whymper serac on the Grandes Jorasses. Excessive zeal on behalf of the town council, or was the serac really in danger of collapsing? Between 20 and 22 September,...
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
Philipp Angelo solos the Grandes Jorasses Polish route
The short report by South Tyrolean alpinist Philipp Angelo who on 15 September2014 carried out what is likely to be the second solo ascent of the Polish route up the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
18/09/2014 - Climbing
Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein, currently touring the Rocky Mountains National Park where the Dutchman recently sent The Wheel Of Chaos V14 (8B+) and the Austrian repeated Riddles in the Park V12 (8A+), provide insight into one of the most famous bouldering areas in the USA.
Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites
12/09/2014 - Alpinism
Discover Brenta Dolomites - From the past to the future of alpinism in the Dolomites
The final dispatch of the Discover Brenta Dolomites project that organised a series of events by Molveno Holiday, APT Dolomiti Paganella and the municipality of Molveno to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of alpinism in the Brenta Dolomites.
Condemned? Alpinism, alpinists and the love for the mountains. By Ivo Ferrari
10/09/2014 - Alpinism
Condemned? Alpinism, alpinists and the love for the mountains. By Ivo Ferrari
A passion, even alpinism and climbing, requires a lot, at times even too much. Is it really necessary? Perhaps it is, because even the happiness that stems from alpinism and climbing has another side of the coin, that must be recognised and accepted so that it can be "governed". It's...
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
10/09/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
The third and final dispatch of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. The report by Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti about the first...

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