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Has exploratory alpinism failed?
10/10/2014 - Alpinism
Has exploratory alpinism failed?
Starting from a recent statement by Reinhold Messner, Manuel Lugli discusses the presumed end of “traditional” and exploratory alpinism.
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
01/10/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the Greenland 2014 expedition, carried out together with Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva. This final update includes the exploration at Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
Avalanche on Shisha Pangma claims lives of Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag
26/09/2014 - Alpinism
Avalanche on Shisha Pangma claims lives of Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag
On 24/09/2014 an avalanche on Shisha Pangma (8027m), Tibet, claimed the lives of Italian alpinist Andrea Zambaldi and German alpinist Sebastian Haag. Martin Maier, the third alpinist caught by the avalanche that triggered shortly below the summit, managed to survive.
The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl
25/09/2014 - Alpinism
The Music of Hope, new Kristallwand climb by Hansjörg Auer and Gerri Fiegl
On 9/09/2014 Hansjörg Auer and Gerhard Fiegl made the first ascent of The Music of Hope (7a, A1, 500m), a new route up the Kristallwand, Kirchkogel, Ötztal Alps, Austria.
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
23/09/2014 - Alpinism
Volcan Aguilera, first ascent in Patagonia by the Uncharted expedition
The Uncharted expedition comprised of Camilo Rada, Natalia Martinez, Ines Dusaillant, Viviana Callahan and Evan Miles has made the first ascent of Volcan Aguilera (2480m) on the South Patagonian Icefield. Furthermore, during the return across the Hielos Continentales the team ascended four other previously unclimbed peaks. The report by Camilo...
International Mountain Summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment
19/09/2014 - Alpinism
International Mountain Summit: a meeting and a discussion about alpinism, doping, culture and the environment
At the International Mountain Summit 2014, that will take place in Brixen, Italy, from 16 - 21 October there are two important days organised by the Master in Mountain Medicine and his director Dott. Luigi Festi. The first, on 17 October, is entitled 'A mountain of words, images, emotions, colors'...
Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
15/09/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland new rock climbs by Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger
This summer Ralph Villiger and Harald Fichtinger made the first ascent of the Austrian-Swiss-Route up the SW Face of Mount Kirken, NE Greenland.
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
10/09/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp 3 - the new climb Attraverso il Tempo on Campanile Basso
The third and final dispatch of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. The report by Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti about the first...
Greenland 2014: Baffin Island and Sam Ford Fjord for Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
08/09/2014 - Alpinism
Greenland 2014: Baffin Island and Sam Ford Fjord for Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
The second dispatch from Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva about their Greenland 2014 expedition.
Torre Egger: Italians Patagonia bound
05/09/2014 - Alpinism
Torre Egger: Italians Patagonia bound
From 11 September to 15 November Ermanno Salvaterra, Tomas Franchini, Nicola Binelli and Francesco Salvaterra will return to Patagonia to try and complete their new route, which they started in November 2013, up the centre of the West Face of Torre Egger.
Vanessa François bivouacs on the Grande Gendarme, Arête des Cosmiques
04/09/2014 - Alpinism
Vanessa François bivouacs on the Grande Gendarme, Arête des Cosmiques
From 2 - 3 September 2014 disabled alpinist Vanessa François spent the night in a portaledge on the Grande Gendarme of Arête des Cosmiques (Mont Blanc) together with Liv Sansoz.
Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda
25/08/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp #2 - two new routes up Punta Jolanda
The report by Alessandro Beber and Alessandro Baù about two new rock climbs on Punta Jolanda: Prua degli Onironauti (250m, VII) and Badanti al seguito (220m, VIII), established on 04/08/2014 together with Matteo Baù, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti and Claudia Mario. The second report of the Brenta Base Camp, the...
Brenta Base Camp #1 - meetings, new climbs and lightening bolts
18/08/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp #1 - meetings, new climbs and lightening bolts
The first report of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. Alessandro Beber reports about Scintilla (450m, VIII), the new climb up the East...
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
12/08/2014 - Alpinism
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
A great and intense and climbing trip to the Ak-su Valley (Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan) resulted in two new climbs and three repeats for the Italian alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo. Schiera provides the report.

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