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Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
08/05/2020 - Interviews
Alessandro Zeni, the 9b Saint Loup Cryptography interview
Interview with Alessandro Zeni who on 11/01/2020 at Saint Loup in Switzerland made the first ascent of Cryptography, a combination of the routes Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. With its suggested grade of 9b it checks in as one of the most difficult slabs in the world.
Angela Eiter discovers her Schatzinsel above Imst
02/05/2020 - Climbing
Angela Eiter discovers her Schatzinsel above Imst
Austrian climber Angela Eiter reports about Schatzinsel, treasure island, a route she cleaned, bolted and freed last autumn above Imst in Austria.
Baffin Island expedition 2012, Auer, Pou & Co climbing in Perfection Valley
29/04/2020 - Alpinism
Baffin Island expedition 2012, Auer, Pou & Co climbing in Perfection Valley
The video of the 2012 climbing expedition to Baffin island carried out by Hansjörg Auer, Riky Felderer, Ben Lepesant, Matteo Mocellin, William Peterson, Eneko Pou and Iker Pou.
Joshua Tree and Scott Cosgrove's visionary New Deal
20/04/2020 - Climbing
Joshua Tree and Scott Cosgrove's visionary New Deal
The video of New Deal, first ascended by Scott Cosgrove in 1988 and repeated for the first time 22 years later, by Alan Moore in 2010.
Steve McClure onsighting Nightmayer at Dinas Cromlech in Wales
31/03/2020 - Climbing
Steve McClure onsighting Nightmayer at Dinas Cromlech in Wales
The video of British rock climber Steve McClure making an onsight ascent of Nightmayer, the difficult trad climb on Dinas Cromlech in Wales.
Aguja Poincenot, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva climb another two routes in Patagonia
27/03/2020 - Alpinism
Aguja Poincenot, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva climb another two routes in Patagonia
Belgian alpinist Nicolas Favresse reports about another two routes climbed with Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia: Beggars Banket (7a, 400m) first ascended on the East Face directly above the Whillans ramp and, on the South Face, the first repeat and first free ascent of Historia interminable (6c,...
Luis Penín, David López Sáenz unearth Gaia at Ehrwald in Austria
25/03/2020 - Alpinism
Luis Penín, David López Sáenz unearth Gaia at Ehrwald in Austria
At the end of February and start of March Spanish mountaineers Luis Penín and David López Sáenz made the first ascent of the mixed climb Gaia (175m, M12?, WI6+) at Ehrwald in Austria.
Luka Lindič & Luka Krajnc add new route to Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia
19/03/2020 - Alpinism
Luka Lindič & Luka Krajnc add new route to Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia
Interview with Slovenian alpinists Luka Lindič and Luka Krajnc after their first ascent of Mir, a new climb up Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia.
Giuliano Cameroni sends stunning sport climbs in Valle Bavona, Switzerland
10/03/2020 - Climbing
Giuliano Cameroni sends stunning sport climbs in Valle Bavona, Switzerland
In Val Bavona, Ticino, Switzerland, Giuliano Cameroni has made the first ascent of two stunningly beautiful sport climbs, Simple Man 8c and Mojo Rising 8c+.
Big wall explored in Valle de la Plata, Patagonia, by Siebe Vanhee, Max Didier, Austin & Ian Siadak
05/03/2020 - Alpinism
Big wall explored in Valle de la Plata, Patagonia, by Siebe Vanhee, Max Didier, Austin & Ian Siadak
During a committing rock climbing expedition in February 2020 to Valle de la Plata in Chile’s Northern Patagonia, Max Didier, Austin Siadak, Ian Siadak and Siebe Vanhee established Bailando con la Lluvia, a 700m big wall up the west face of the hitherto virgin peak Pared de La Plata. After...
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
28/02/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
26/02/2020 - Alpinism
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
French mountain guide Arnaud Petit and Jonathan Crison have led a young FFME expedition to Jordan where they established a new route up Jebel Rum in the Wadi Rum massif. Voie du Coeur (430m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory) was first ascended with Eline Le Menestrel, Solène Amoros, Eloi Peretti, Romaric...
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
Julien Herry, Yannick Boissenot score new new descent on Aiguille du Peigne in Mont Blanc massif
On 9 February 2020 Julien Herry and Yannick Boissenot made what is likely to be the first ski and snowboard descent of the Boeuf - Sara couloir on Aiguille du Peigne in the Mont Blanc massif. Herry reports.
Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl complete Mission To Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada
12/02/2020 - Alpinism
Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl complete Mission To Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada
At the Helmcken Falls in Canada Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have made the first ascent of Mission To Mars, a hugely overhanging ice climb they have graded WI 13.
Zsigmondycouloir up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites by Hannes Egarter, Hannes Pfeifhofer
11/02/2020 - Alpinism
Zsigmondycouloir up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites by Hannes Egarter, Hannes Pfeifhofer
South Tyrolean mountain guide Hannes Pfeifhofer reports about the first ascent of Zsigmondycouloir on the Zsigmondykopf up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites, established with Hannes Egarter
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
06/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
In Valle Cochamo in Chile Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Teofil Vlad have made the first ascent of El ultimo Vuelo del Condor. The new multi-pitch rock climb is dedicated to Zsolt Torok who perished in August 2019.

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