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French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Stefano Ghisolfi, Eliška Adamovská win in Briançon
19/07/2021 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi, Eliška Adamovská win in Briançon
Last night Stefano Ghisolfi from Italy and Eliška Adamovská from the Czech republic won the fourth stage of the Lead World Cup in Briançon in France.
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
15/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
Enenko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of ¡Viva Perú Carajo !, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Nevado Huamashraju East in Peru. At the same time their expedition partners Manu Ponce and Micher Quito also established a new route up the mountain’s north face.
Laura Rogora and Sean Bailey win Chamonix Lead World Cup
14/07/2021 - Competitions
Laura Rogora and Sean Bailey win Chamonix Lead World Cup
The penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2021 was won on Tuesday night by Laura Rogora from Italy and Sean Bailey from the USA in Chamonix in France. Stefano Ghisolfi placed a wonderful second, together with America’s Natalia Grossman. Aleksandra Totkova from Bulgaria and Martin Stranik from the Czech...
Climbing in Dolomites Höhlensteintal: the five best crags for Dolorock 2021
30/06/2021 - Climbing
Climbing in Dolomites Höhlensteintal: the five best crags for Dolorock 2021
Mountain guide Daniel Rogger introduces the five best crags in Höhlensteintal / Valle di Landro in the Dolomites, ideally suited for the Dolorock Climbing Festival scheduled to take place in July: Landro Classico, Scheeweg / Franchi, Stube and Balkonien, Grotte di Landro and the Militare Alpini crag
Chantel Astorga interview after Cassin Ridge solo on Denali in Alaska
28/06/2021 - Interviews
Chantel Astorga interview after Cassin Ridge solo on Denali in Alaska
Interview with top American alpinist Chantel Astorga after the first female solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali in Alaska.
Cocktail Sans Glace savoured on Pic Coolidge, Écrins, by Markus Kirch, James Price
23/06/2021 - Alpinism
Cocktail Sans Glace savoured on Pic Coolidge, Écrins, by Markus Kirch, James Price
German alpinist Markus Kirch reports about the first ascent of Cocktail Sans Glace, a new mixed route established in mid-May with James Price and on the North Face of Pic Coolidge in the Massif des Écrins, France.
Symon Welfringer delights in Delicatessen, Ro.Ma and other Corsica classics
16/06/2021 - Climbing
Symon Welfringer delights in Delicatessen, Ro.Ma and other Corsica classics
French alpinist Symon Welfringer has repeated numerous hard multi-pitch rock climbs in the Bavella massif of Corsica, including single-day ascents of Delicatessen, Ro.Ma, Parfum de Violence and La Baraka.
Bronwyn Hodgins repeats Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite
11/06/2021 - Interviews
Bronwyn Hodgins repeats Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite
Interview with 28-year-old Canadian rock climber Bronwyn Hodgins who this spring made a free ascent of the 5.13a big wall Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite.
James Taylor liberates Prisoners of the Sun at Anglesey in North Wales
10/06/2021 - Climbing
James Taylor liberates Prisoners of the Sun at Anglesey in North Wales
British rock climber James Taylor has made the first ascent of Prisoners of the Sun, an impressively difficult and dangerous E10 7a trad climb at Rhoscolyn on Holy Island, Anglesey, Wales.
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it
09/06/2021 - Climbing
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it
Massone, Nago, Belvedere, Spiaggia delle Lucertole and Calvario: five crags you must visit to savour the best sport climbing around Arco and Lake Garda. This is the first article in a series made with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday, today and tomorrow as part of its 'Learn to Climb with...
Heavenly Trap on Baruntse, Márek Holeček reports about new route with Radoslav Groh
08/06/2021 - Alpinism
Heavenly Trap on Baruntse, Márek Holeček reports about new route with Radoslav Groh
Czech alpinist Márek Holeček reports about Heavenly Trap, the new route climbed alpine style over 10 days up the West Face of Baruntse (7129m) in Nepal together with Radoslav Groh.
Alessandro Larcher greenpoints Bombo Balla, 8b+ trad at Bus de Vela
04/06/2021 - Climbing
Alessandro Larcher greenpoints Bombo Balla, 8b+ trad at Bus de Vela
Alessandro Larcher reports about his greenpoint ascent of Bombo Balla at Bus de Vela above Trento, Italy. Put in other words, the Italian rock climber repeated the 8b+ sport climb in October 2020 skipping the bolts and as a trad climb.
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh survive Baruntse NW Face ordeal
31/05/2021 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh survive Baruntse NW Face ordeal
Czech climbers Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh are safe and sound after having established a new climb on the NW Face of Baruntse (7129m) in Nepal. After climbing the route alpine style the two Czech mountaineers endured an epic, 80-hour descent.
Steve McClure flashes Impact Day, difficult trad climb at Pavey Ark, UK
26/05/2021 - Climbing
Steve McClure flashes Impact Day, difficult trad climb at Pavey Ark, UK
English climber Steve McClure has made a flash ascent of Impact Day, a difficult and somewhat dangerous E8 6c trad route at Pavey Ark in England.
The fabulous world of Jenny Fischer
23/05/2021 - Interviews
The fabulous world of Jenny Fischer
Interview by Maurizio Oviglia with American rock climber Jenny Fischer.

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