2270 News found

Climbed on 16 January 2021 by Gianni Del Din and Otello De Toni, the icefall Cascata Toboga at Pala delle Masenade in Moiazza (Dolomites) is the winter version of the summer rock climb first ascended in 1989 by Giuliano De Marchi and Anna Sommavilla. Del Din reports while the topo...

Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.

On the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland Simon Chatelan and Nicolas Jaquet have established the mixed climb Narsil (M10 WI5+). Chatelan reports.

The thoughts of Tamara Lunger, published yesterday on Facebook, in memory of Sergi Mingote, the Catalan mountaineer who lost his life on Saturday 16 January 2021 while descending from Camp 1 on K2. The South Tyrolean mountaineer is currently attempting the second highest mountain in the world and, in addition...

South Tyrolean alpinists Simon and Manuel Gietl have added a new mixed climb to Sennesspitze (Muntejela de Sénes) in the Dolomites by establishing Sorejina (WI5+, M6, 50°, 700m).

Spanish mountaineer Sergi Mingote died earlier today while descending from K2. The Catalan mountaineer was descending from Camp 1 to Advanced Base Camp when he fell to his death.

German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.

Beneath a heavy snowfall Czech rock climber Martin Stráník has made the first ascent of Teorie Tygra, an 8B+ boulder problem at Vesec in the Czech Republic.

The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...

Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Erebor at Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+, this is currently the most difficult sport climb in Italy.

On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.

Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Phoenix, a difficult mixed climb on Hochbrunner Schneid in the Italian Dolomites.

Interview with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini after their respective repeats of Harder Faster and Gaia at Black Rocks in England. These hard grit testpieces were first ascended by Charlie Woodburn and Johnny Dawes and while Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, Ciavaldini had made the third...

At Black Rocks in England James Pearson has repeated the extremely dangerous gritstone testpiece Harder, Faster while his wife Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Gaia. Pearson’s is only the third ascent in 20 years, while Ciavaldini claims the third female ascent.

A series of new mixed climbs have been added to Ralfkopf and Glödis above the Lesachtal valley close to Kals am Großglockner in Austria's East Tyrol by Vittorio Messini, Lukas Pichler, Michael Amraser, Isidor Poppeller and Hans Zlöbl.

On 28/11/2020 the two mountain guides Manuel Baumgartner and Simon Kehrer made the first ascent of Aurona, a new mixed climb up the north face of Sas dle Diesc (Sasso delle Dieci), Fanes, Dolomites. Baumgartner reports.