722 News found

Climbing at the very limit: today Adam Ondra freed La Dura Dura at Oliana in Spain for which he suggests the super grade 9b+. The interview and first details directly from "magic" Adam himself.

The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style.

On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).

On 27/12/2012 Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali completed Sfasciacarrozze (WI 6+, M7, 210m), a new ice and mixed climb established over three days on Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.

On Tuscany's Monte Amiata Michele Caminati has freed the boulder problem Mondo Bastardo 8B and the trad route Un friend per amico E6 6c.

On 12/01/2013 Beppe Ballico, Andrea Gamberini and Marco Milanese made what is likely to be the first ascent of the icefall Psyco Killer (IV+, WI7-, D5, 225m) on the Tofana di Mezzo (Dolomites).

E9 6c, the climbing documentary featuring John Redhead and Johnny Dawes, by Dominic Clemence.

On 30/12/2012 Andrea Di Donato, Andrea Di Pascasio and Lorenzo Angelozzi attempted the first winter ascent of Orient Express, but were stopped by Angelozzi's massive fall. Fortunately there were no serious consequences. Andrea Di Pascasio recounts the story.

A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).

'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy...

News from Patagonia: 48 alpinists summited Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route, while a variation finish was added called Directa Huarpe. The Cerro Pollone group was traversed by Japanese climbers Jumbo Jokoyama e Ryo Masumoto.

An analysis of the youth climbing competition scene and interview with European Lead Tina Johnsen Hafsaas. An article by Franz Schiassi.

Interview with Austrian competition athlete Johanna Ernst, certainly one of the most talented sports climbers in the world.

The Canadian climber Sean McColl crowned his best competition season yet by winning this unique challenge organised by La Sportiva, beating runner-up Dmitry Sharafutdinov by one attempt.

The second "Legends Only" boulder competition, organised by La Sportiva will take place in Sweden's Stockholm today. Those invited to take part are Dmitry Sharafutdinov, Adam Ondra, Sean McColl, Jakob Schubert and Guillaume Glairon Mondet.

19/11/2012. The last stage of the Lead World Cup held last weekend in Kranj, Slovenia, was won by home-athlete Mina Markovic who has now won her second overall World Cup. In the men's event Austria's Jakob Schubert won the Kranj stage while second-placed Sachi Amma from Japan won his first...