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New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
01/08/2022 - Alpinism
New Italian climb on Uli Biaho Spire climb in Trango group, Pakistan
On Uli Biaho Spire (5620m) in the Trango Towers region of Pakistan’s Karakorum the Italian alpinists Alessandro Baù, Leonardo Gheza and Francesco Ratti have established Refrigerator Off-Width. The 510m new route up the mountain’s East Face was climbed alpine style and is graded 7a, A2, M5.
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher free climb Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
27/07/2022 - Alpinism
Barbara Zangerl, Jacopo Larcher free climb Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the trango tower range in Pakistan has been repeated free by Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher. Zangerl is the first woman to complete a free ascent of what is regarded as the hardest and most beautiful big wall free climb at altitude in...
Edu Marín makes second free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
22/07/2022 - Alpinism
Edu Marín makes second free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower
Climbing with his brother Álex and his father Francisco, Catalan climber Edu Marín has made the second free ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the trango tower range in Pakistan. Established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, the Karakorum big wall...
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
13/07/2022 - Alpinism
One Push added to Pumahuacanca in Peru by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Basque mountaineers Eneko and Iker Pou, together with Peruvian mountaineer  Micher Quito, have made the first ascent of One Push on the SW Face of Pumahuacanca in Peru, describing the 1000m line as 'brutal' and 'the hardest high mountain route of our career.'
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
01/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...
Marcin Tomaszewski and Damian Bielecki battle up Frozen Fight Club on Uli Biaho Gallery, Trango
21/12/2021 - Alpinism
Marcin Tomaszewski and Damian Bielecki battle up Frozen Fight Club on Uli Biaho Gallery, Trango
Over a period of 11 days at the start of December 2021 Polish mountaineers Marcin Tomaszewski and Damian Bielecki made the first ascent of Frozen Fight Club (A3, M7, 780m)on Uli Biaho Gallery, Trango, Krakorum, Pakistan.
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
23/07/2020 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award
French mountaineer Catherine Destivelle will become the first woman to receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award at the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland in September. In the past the coveted prize has been awarded to greatest mountaineers of all times.
Nameless Tower Eternal Flame / Huber brothers first free ascent video
15/04/2020 - Alpinism
Nameless Tower Eternal Flame / Huber brothers first free ascent video
The video of the first free ascent of Eternal Flame, the legendary rock climb on Nameless Tower, in the Trango group, Karakorum. Established by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora, the first redpoint was carried out from 11 - 14 August 2009 by Thomas and Alexander Huber.
Sílvia Vidal completes 33-day solo ascent of Sincronia Magica on Cerro Chileno Grande, Patagonia
10/04/2020 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal completes 33-day solo ascent of Sincronia Magica on Cerro Chileno Grande, Patagonia
After spending 33 days alone on the wall from 07/02 - 10/03/2020, Silvia Vidal completed a new big wall climb up the West Face of Cerro Chileno Grande in Patagonia, Chile. Sincronia Magica (A3+/6a+, 1200m circa) is the first route up the mountain’s west face.
Iker Pou celebrates 20 years of climbing 9a
29/01/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou celebrates 20 years of climbing 9a
42-year-old Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of La Nave de los Locos on the island of Mallorca in Spain. With this ascent he celebrates 20 years of 9a climbing, after sending his first in 2000, Action Directe freed by Wolfgang Güllich in the Frankenjura, Germany.
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.
Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b+ up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
09/01/2019 - Climbing
Alexander Huber rope-solo first ascent of Mauerläufer 8b+ up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria
Climbing alone and ground-up, last spring German alpinist Alexander Huber made the first ascent of Mauerläufer (200m, 8b+) up Waidringer Steinplatte in Austria.
Iker Pou at Margalef frees Artaburu, his hardest climb ever
19/12/2018 - Climbing
Iker Pou at Margalef frees Artaburu, his hardest climb ever
At Margalef in Spain, Basque climber Iker Pou has made the first ascent of Artaburu, his hardest sport climb to date.
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 / Nanga Parbat by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon
20/07/2018 - Events
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 / Nanga Parbat by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon
The 5th Karl Unterkircher Award was awarded on 14 July 2018 in Selva di Val Gardena, Italy to Simone Moro who, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, carried out the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in February 2016. The other climbers that had been nominated Ines Papert and...
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
09/10/2017 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Franček Knez, Slovenia's silent climber
62-year-old Slovenian mountaineer Franček Knez died on 6 October 2017. Reserved and modest, Knez was considered by many as one of the strongest alpinists of his generation. Published below is a profile written by Slovenian journalist Urban Golob in 2010 when, together with Silvo Karo, Knez was conferred the Order...
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
06/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
Mountaineering: from 29 November to 6 December 2016 Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of 'Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 1800m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland).

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