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Karl Unterkircher Award 2018: Luka Lindič, Ines Papert, Simone Moro, Simon Gietl and Marcel Schenk
Photo by archivio Karl Unterkircher Award
The jury of the Karl Unterkircher Award 2018: Simon Kehrer, Carlo Caccia, Hubert Moroder, Thomas Huber e Silvio Mondinelli (President)
Photo by archivio Karl Unterkircher Award
Kur Diemberger at the Karl Unterkircher Award 2018
Photo by archivio Karl Unterkircher Award
The spectators at the Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 at Selva di Val Gardena on 14/07/2018
Photo by archivio Karl Unterkircher Award

Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 / Nanga Parbat by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon

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The 5th Karl Unterkircher Award was awarded on 14 July 2018 in Selva di Val Gardena, Italy to Simone Moro who, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, carried out the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in February 2016. The other climbers that had been nominated Ines Papert and Luka Lindič for their new route on Kyzyl Asker in Kyrgyzstan (China), and Simon Gietl and Marcel Schenk for the new mixed climb up Pizzo Badile in Switzerland.

Third time lucky as the Brits would say. This is perhaps what Italian mountaineer Simone Moro thought last Saturday when, at his third nomination, he won the fifth Karl Unterkircher Award, the prize designed to remember South Tyrolean alpinist Karl Unterkircher who died tragically precisely 10 years ago while attempting to establish a new route up the difficult and immense Rakhiot wall of Nanga Parbat.

The jury, comprised of an all-star selection fo mountaineers and journalists - Silvio Mondinelli, Thomas Huber, Simon Kehrer, Hubert Moroder and Carlo Caccia - selected Moro for his extraordinary, historical first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in February 2016 together with Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon and also Tamara Lunger turned back just a few meters shy of the summit.

The spirit of the biennial award isn’t to place one climb on a pedestal, but simply to highlight the ascent in relation to what drove Karl Unterkircher. It is in this light that the other two selected climbs were also celebrated: that of Germany’s Ines Papert who with Slovenia’s Luka Lindič made the first ascent of Lost in China (ED, WI5+, M6, 1200m) in October 2016, a "perfect high-altitude ice climb" up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m) in Kyrgyzstan, and that of Italy’s Simon Gietl and Switzerland’s Marcel Schenk who, in November 2016, established Amore di Vetro (800m, M5, R), an ephemeral mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile.

Special guest of the awards ceremony was, as usual, Kurt Diemberger, the only living mountaineer to have made the first ascent of two 8000ers who fondly remembered Unterkircher.

JURY DECISION
The jury of the 5th edition of the "Karl Unterkircher Award" composed by Silvio Mondinelli (president), Thomas Huber, Carlo Caccia, Simon Kehrer and Hubert Moroder met today, 14/07/2018 to decide who to award the recognition.

The choice proved to be extremely difficult due to the very high level of all the climbs named, which, representing different expressions of contemporary alpinism, are difficult to compare. All three companies are important pages in the history of confrontation between man and mountain.

The awarding of the prize is therefore not intended to put a level above the other, but to highlight one of these pages. Ten years after Karl's death on Nanga Parbat, the jury decided to honor the "Karl Unterkircher Award" to Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon reached the summit on 26 February 2016 as first winter ascent the summit of Nanga Parbat, which was also Karl's last big dream.

The spirit of Karl will always remain on this Himalayan giant which - as Kurt Diemberger wrote - is not simply "the bare mountain" filed by avalanches or "the king of the mountains", but also the "Diamir" where all the spirits of the mountains live.

The jury was particularly impressed by the story of Ines Papert and Luka Lindic on Kyzyl Asker in China and the ability to capture the moment of Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl on Pizzo Badile. Both of these companies reflect Karl's style in dealing with the mountains in every way.

Karl Unterkircher Award Hall of Fame
2016: Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman, first ascent of Link Sar West (6938m - Karakoram)
2014: Simon Anthamatten, Matthias Auer and Hansjörg Auer, first ascent of the East Face of Kunyang Chhish, Karakorum / Pakistan
2012: Marina Kopteva, Anna Yasinskaya and Galina Chibitok, new route established in 38 days up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (Pakistan).
2010: Ueli Steck, Schmid route up North Face of the Matterhorn, Golden Gate on El Capitan and the normal routes on GII and Makalu.

Further information: www.karlunterkircher.com

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NEWS / Related news:
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 nominees for 5th edition
25.05.2018
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 nominees for 5th edition
On July 14, 2018 Selva di Val Gardena will host the fifth edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award in memory of the South Tyrolean alpinist who died ten years ago on Nanga Parbat. The alpinists nominated for the 2018 award are Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon for the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat, Ines Papert and Luka Lindič for their new route up Kyzyl Asker in Kyrgyzstan (China), and Simon Gietl and Marcel Schenk for the new mixed climb up Pizzo Badile in Switzerland. Special guest: Kurt Diemberger
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
26.02.2016
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
On Friday 26 February 2016 Italy's Simone Moro, Spain's Alex Txikon and Pakistan's Ali Sadpara successfully carried out the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan). Italy's Tamara Lunger stopped her bid on the ridge below the summit. Towards 20:00 circa (Pakistan time) all four alpinists returned to Camp 4 at 7100m.
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
26.10.2016
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič
Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
23.11.2016
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
11.08.2016
Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman win the Karl Unterkircher Award 2016
On 27 July 2016 British mountaineers Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman received the 4th Karl Unterkircher Award for their first ascent of Link Sar West (6.938m - Karakoram). The other two ascents that had been nominated were Marek Raganowicz and Marcin Tomaszewski winter first ascent of Katharsis on Norway’s Troll wall and the first ascent of via Degli studenti up the NW Face of Civetta (Dolomites) by the Italians Giorgio Travaglia, Alex Walpoth, Martin Dejori and Titus Prinoth.
Karl Unterkircher Award won by Simon Anthamatten, Matthias Auer and Hansjörg Auer
25.07.2014
Karl Unterkircher Award won by Simon Anthamatten, Matthias Auer and Hansjörg Auer
On Wednesday, July 23 at Selva di Val Gardena, Dolomites, the 3rd Karl Unterkircher Award 2014 was given to Simon Anthamatten, Matthias Auer and Hansjörg Auer for their first ascent of the East Face of Kunyang Chhish, Karakorum / Pakistan.
Karl Unterkircher Award won by Ukranian Great Trango Tower expedition
11.07.2012
Karl Unterkircher Award won by Ukranian Great Trango Tower expedition
On Friday 6 July at Selva di Val Gardena (Italy) Marina Kopteva and Anna Yasinskaya from the Ukraine and Galina Chibitok from Russia received the Karl Unterkircher Award 2012 for their new route established in 38 days up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (Pakistan).
Karl Unterkircher perishes on Nanga Parbat
17.07.2008
Karl Unterkircher perishes on Nanga Parbat
On 15 July the South Tyrolean mountaineer Karl Unterkircher fell into a crevasse at circa 6800m on Nanga Parbat’s Rakhiot Face. Unable to descend, his two climbing partners Walter Nones and Simon Kehrer have been forced to continue their ascent. A rescue expedition is departing from Italy at this very moment.

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