Andrea Milani makes first ascent of Affinità Elettive at Capanna Bill, Dolomites

At the crag Capanna Bill in the Dolomites, Italy, Andrea Milani has made the first ascent of 'Affinità Elettive'. This 9a+ is a tribute to the brothers Luca and Mario Prinoth.
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Andrea Milani making the first ascent of 'Affinità Elettive' (9a+) at Capanna Bill in the Dolomites
OutThere Collective

Two years after freeing Absinthium at the crag Capanna Bill close to Passo Fedaia in the Italian Dolomites, Andrea Milani has now struck again — this time with the first ascent of Affinità Elettive.

The route is a new connection that essentially avoids the original start of The Search and, instead, follows 8b/+ Wrangler. The result is a 50-metre test that checks in at about 9a+.

Milani explained: "I believe this is the route where I truly gave everything, down to the very last drop. I don’t think I’ve ever felt such a complete sense of exhaustion." The 28-year-old mountain guide added: "Having tried several routes of similar difficulty, and considering the effort this one required - even though it suits my style perfectly — I think proposing 9a+ as the grade is realistic."

Apart from the impressive difficulty, it’s worth highlighting the route’s deeper meaning - it stands as a tribute to brothers Luca and Mario Prinoth. While Absinthium is the extension of The Search, an 8c+ established by Mario Prinoth in 2009, Wrangler was bolted by his brother Luca, who sadly died in an avalanche that same year, leaving the route unfinished.

"Linking the two lines felt like the most natural and human thing to do," Milani told planetmountain, "a way to keep two brothers forever connected through the rock they loved."

It’s also worth noting that Affinità Elettive has been made into a short film, which will be screened at official Patagonia stores across Italy this autumn.




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