89 News found

Florian Harasser reports about the first ascent, carried out with Simon Gietl, of two new multipitch climbs in Val Badia / Gadertal in the Dolomites: 'Halli Galli' on Crep de Boè and 'La perla nera' on Torre Colfosco.

From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...

At Meiringen in Switzerland last weekend Janja Garnbret of Slovenia and Tomoa Narasaki of Japan won the first stage of the Boulder World Cup 2022. Natalia Grossman and Yoshiyuki Ogata won silver, Andrea Kümin and Mejdi Schalck won bronze.

A small Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze has made two interesting ascents in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan: the first ascent of the Northwest summit of Saraghrar 7,303m and the third ascent of Languta-e-Barfi 6,833m.

In Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have established Eremit, a difficult mixed climb protected with trad gear and pegs. Messner reports.

Switzerland’s Nils Favre and France’s Symon Welfringer have repeated Paciencia, the 900m 8a first ascended by Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck in 2003 up the North Face of the Eiger.

Paralpinism in Patagonia: German mountaineer Fabian Buhl has made a paraglide flight off the summit of Cerro Torre in Patagonia. The 29-year-old is the first to do so after reaching the summit by his own means.

Czech mountaineer Márek Holeček reports about his alpine style ascent, carried out with climbing partner Zdeněk Hák of the virgin NW Face of Chamlang (7321 m) in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new climb has been called UFO Line and is described as 'the hardest climb we have done together in...

The Committee for the defence of Val Di Mello, Italy, has launched an online petition against the planned expansion of an existing path that would make it accessible to wheelchairs and the disabled. While thousands have already signed in protest, Luca Maspes, President of the Val di Mello Mountain Guides, urges for...

Winter climbing in the Dolomites: Simone Banal and Matteo Faletti report about their first ascents, on 8 and 9 January 2019 of 'La Bella' (265m AI5+, 90°) and ‘La Bestia' (250m, AI5+, M6) up Cima del Focobon, Pale di San Martino group, with Alessandro Beber, Marco Pellegrini and Marco Zanni.

Tragedy in Patagonia: last week a Czech mountaineer died on Fitz Roy and two Brazilian mountaineers have gone missing. A 19-man rescue attempt was launched including Italian mountaineers Claudio Migliorini, Luca Schiera, Edoardo Albrighi, Jacopo Zezza, Giampaolo Calzà, Paolo Marazzi, Dimitri Anghileri, two Spanish climbers, two Argentinians and Denis Urubko....

Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.

In Langental / Vallunga Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Sonnentanz (WI5+ M7+ 260m), a mixed climb above Val Gardena, Dolomites.

Interview with Simon Gietl after his ascent free solo ascent of Via Lacedelli up Cima Scotoni in the Dolomites on 18 October 2018.

On 29 August 2018 Manolo (aka Maurizio Zanolla) and Narci Simion made the first free ascent of Bebe Forever (100m, max 7b/c max 6c), a new rock climb up Tacca Bianca (Val Canali, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The line is dedicated to Gabriele 'Bebe' Simion, son of Narci. The...

Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella reports about the first ascent of King Kong, the new mixed climb up Cerro Riso Patrón Sur established last February during a 22-day 'by fair means' climbing expedition with Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach. The two mountaineers travelled to one of the most isolated areas of Patagonia by...