86 News found

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation recently published a paper about how Norway successfully dealt with an alarming wave of autobelay accidents. The article is republished with kind permission of the UIAA.

On the 31st of July, Aurélia Lanoë and Silvia Loreggian set off from Ventimiglia in NW Italy on their 'South 6 project'. The idea is to cross the Alps by bike from the west to east and free climb six major south faces: Corno Stella, Mont Blanc, Wenden, Rätikon, Marmolada,...

Gabriele Gorobey reports about the March 2023 first ascent, with Davide Gaeta and Guido De Sabbata, of Kairos (8a+, 230m), a new multi-pitch route on Paroi de la Cascade in Taghia, Morocco.

In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers south of Tasiilaq on the island's southeast coast, was reached...

On Cerro Trinidad Central in Valle Cochamó in Chile the Italian climbers Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz and Leo Gheza have established the big wall 'Nunca say Nunca' (5.12+/A1/1000m). Gheza reports.

Italian mountain guide Francesco Rigon reports about the first ascent of ice climb 'Solo per un sorriso' (WI 5+ 170m), established with Mirco Grasso on Croda di Cacciagrande in the Sorapiss Group (Dolomites) on 19/12/2023.

An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...

Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).

On the gendarme Roi du Siam (3632m) in the Mont Blanc massif the Italian mountain guides Niccolò Bruni and Gianluca Marra have established the multi-pitch climb 'Calcul du Roi'. Bruni reports.

On Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) Angelo Contessi and Leo Gheza, together with Stefano Ragazzo, established Via Monologica route. Contessi reports.

Black Diamond Equipment is issuing a voluntary recall for its Recon LT avalanche transceiver to carry out a required firmware update.

Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of 'Northern Twilight' (M7, WI6) on the same face. 22-year-old Dolmans...

Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established rope-solo. Knuuttila provides the details.

Florian Harasser reports about the first ascent, carried out with Simon Gietl, of two new multipitch climbs in Val Badia / Gadertal in the Dolomites: 'Halli Galli' on Crep de Boè and 'La perla nera' on Torre Colfosco.

From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...

At Meiringen in Switzerland last weekend Janja Garnbret of Slovenia and Tomoa Narasaki of Japan won the first stage of the Boulder World Cup 2022. Natalia Grossman and Yoshiyuki Ogata won silver, Andrea Kümin and Mejdi Schalck won bronze.