New climb on Roi du Siam in Mont Blanc massif by Niccolò Bruni, Gianluca Marra

People had eyed this section of Roi du Siam for years and I too had often wondered if there were any routes up there. After speaking to various friends and colleagues, I found out that there was nothing there, apart from an old attempt that ended after just 3 or 4 pitches, circa 20 or 30 meters from where I intended to climb.

One day, on my way to repeat Lifting du Roi with some clients, I passed below the wall for the umpteenth time, and for the umpteenth time I took some pictures of the face. When I got home I studied the photos carefully and visualized the entire new route, from the base all the way to the summit.

A few days later I was on the phone to Gianluca Marra and I immediately suggested that we try the route together. I sent him some photos with the route line and as soon as he saw them he replied "when should we go?"

And that's the background to our route… On Monday 17th July we reached the foot of Roi du Siam loaded like mules, and after that first day on the face we returned to finish the line on Sunday 23rd July. Calcul du Roi is a beautiful 300m route that for almost its entirety follows a system of cracks on granite that is nothing short of spectacular, past difficulties no higher than 6a+.

The name of the route came from the fact that during the first ascent I was accompanied by the pain of a small gallbladder stone.

TOPO: Calcul du Roi, Roi du Siam, Petit Capucin, Mont Blanc

Link: www.guidecourmayeur.com