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Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
26/05/2022 - Interviews
Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German alpinist David Göttler who at 9:45am on 21 May 2022 reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is the 43-year-old's sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.
David Göttler summits Everest without supplementary oxygen
22/05/2022 - Alpinism
David Göttler summits Everest without supplementary oxygen
On 21 May 2022, 43-year-old German alpinist David Göttler reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is is sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.
Yasushi Yamanoi to receive Lifetime Achievement Award Piolet d'Or Carrière 2021
23/11/2021 - Alpinism
Yasushi Yamanoi to receive Lifetime Achievement Award Piolet d'Or Carrière 2021
Japanese mountaineer Yasushi Yamanoi is to receive the13th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated in Briançon, France, from 26 to 29 November.
East Greenland 2021: 8 new climbs, 7 big walls by Favresse, Jaruta, Villanueva, Wertz
03/11/2021 - Alpinism
East Greenland 2021: 8 new climbs, 7 big walls by Favresse, Jaruta, Villanueva, Wertz
The final report by Nicolas Favresse who this summer with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz and Aleksej Jaruta, climbed a series of new routes in the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord area of Eastern Greenland
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
19/10/2021 - Alpinism
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines have climbed a remarkable new route up the virgin North Face of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal. 'À l'ombre du mensonge' was ascended alpine style over 4 days and breaches difficulties up WI 5+, M5+, 90°, ED.
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
18/10/2021 - Alpinism
Bepino on Cima Uomo in the Brenta Dolomites by Michele Cagol, Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher and Michele Cagol have made the first ascent of Bepino, a new multi-pitch rock climb on the west face of Cima Uomo (2543m) in the Brenta Dolomites to remember their father-in-law Giuseppe Deavi. The route was subsequently freed by Bepino's nephew and Rolando's son, Alessandro Larcher. The three...
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Andrzej Bargiel, Jędrek Baranowski climb Laila Peak
Andrzej Bargiel, Jędrek Baranowski climb Laila Peak
On 10 May Andrzej Bargiel and Jędrek Baranowski climbed Laila Peak (6096m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Starting from about 150m below the summit, the two Polish mountaineers then descended on skis.
Andrzej Bargiel claims first ascent and ski descent of Yawash Sar II in Pakistan
Andrzej Bargiel claims first ascent and ski descent of Yawash Sar II in Pakistan
On 30 April Andrzej Bargiel made the first ascent Yawash Sar II (6178m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Having reached the summit via the west face, the Polish mountaineer then made the mountain’s first ski descent.
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
31/03/2021 - Alpinism
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon recently returned from an attempt to climb Manaslu in winter. An expedition which ended without the hoped-for success but which, once again, teaches us to 'find more important goals than the summit.'
Farewell to Cala Cimenti and Patrick Negro
09/02/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cala Cimenti and Patrick Negro
Carlo Alberto Cimenti, best known as Cala, and Patrick Negro perished yesterday in an avalanche while skiing in the mountains of Susa Valley in Italy.
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
06/11/2020 - Alpinism
K6 Central first ascent in Pakistan by Priti and Jeff Wright
American alpinists Priti and Jeff Wright made the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in the Karakorum in Pakistan on 9 October 2020, a day after making the third ascent of K6 West (7140m). The Wright’s report about their impressive alpine style ascent that required 8 nights and nine days on...
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
05/07/2019 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2019: jury and big list of world’s most significant, innovative mountain climbs
58 ascents carried out in 2018 have been included in the Big list, from which winners will be selected for the Piolets d’Or , the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated from 19 - 22 September 2019 during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland. The jury is comprised of:...
Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron climb A Peak Central Couloir in Cabinet Mountains, USA
30/11/2018 - Alpinism
Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron climb a peak Central Couloir in Cabinet Mountains, USA
The Central Couloir of a peak in the Cabinet Mountains, Montana, USA, has been climbed by Jess Roskelley and Scott Coldiron.
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini forge new mixed climb up Mt Prijakt in Austria
12/11/2018 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini forge new mixed climb up Mt Prijakt in Austria
Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini have made the first ascent of Sintflut, Deluge, a new ice and mixed climb up the north face of Mount Prijakt in Austria. Messini reports.

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