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Aleksej Jaruta climbing above the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord in Greenland: 3 months of expedition resulted in 8 new routes on 7 big walls for Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz, Aleksej Jaruta
Photo by Jean Louis Wertz
Nicolas Favresse making the first ascent of The wall of plank, Siren Tower, Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord, Greenland (Nicolas Favresse, Aleksej Jaruta, Jean-Louis Wertz, Sean Villanueva, 2021)
Photo by Jean Louis Wertz
Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord Greenland: 45 days sailing, 45 days on land
Photo by Jean Louis Wertz
The wall of plank, Siren Tower, Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord, Greenland (Nicolas Favresse, Aleksej Jaruta, Jean-Louis Wertz, Sean Villanueva, 2021)
Photo by Jean Louis Wertz

East Greenland 2021: 8 new climbs, 7 big walls by Favresse, Jaruta, Villanueva, Wertz

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The final report by Nicolas Favresse who this summer with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz and Aleksej Jaruta, climbed a series of new routes in the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord area of Eastern Greenland



We made it safely back from Greenland almost 3 weeks ago already! The transition from living for 3 months completely disconnected to a world at full speed has been tough, but we are slowly acclimatising back to technology!

Anyway, the Atlantic crossing was as tough as expected. We managed to get across making intermediate stops in Iceland, Scotland and Ireland in order to avoid getting caught in mean storms. Even so we did see huge waves and shared several dishes with the fishes along the way. After such a long time at sea, the feeling of getting back on a solid ground where you can run and pee on a tree feels fantastic!

Although the sailing to Greenland and back was long and petty uncomfortable, it did add a nice spice to our adventure and helped us have an appreciative mindset and contributed to having a creative mind.

During the 3-month climbing expedition we sailed for about 45 days and spent 45 days on land. We managed to open 8 new routes and test the acoustics of 7 big walls in the area of Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord. 

After climbing 4 routes in the Mythics Cirque we used inflatable kayaks to access other big walls deeper in the Fjord. The Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord area is incredibly beautiful and wild and hosts what seems to be infinite big wall climbing possibilities. We used no bolts nor piton during the whole expedition. But we did use chalk and underwear!

The Wall of plank, possible first ascent of the Siren Tower, 16 pitches of 7b+ max with an alternative 8a variation (The Jaruta variation freed by Aleksej Jaruta), 700m climbed over a 5 day capsule style ascent by Sean Villanueva, Aleksej Jaruta, Nicolas Favresse and Jean-Louis Wertz
The Olympic speed climbing record, 11 pitches, 7a+ max, 550 m, Aurora peak climbed in a 8 hour push by Sean Villanueva and Jean-Louis Wertz
The Russian/ Belgian route, 10 pitches, 7b max, 550m on Aurora peak climbed in a 9 hour push by Aleksej Jaruta and Nicolas Favresse
Daddy’s sweet tooth, 17 pitches, 7b max, 800m, Ataatap Tower, finishing up Built Fjord Tough (Mike Libecki, Ethan Pringle) for the last 7 pitches, climbed in a 18-hour push by Aleksej Jaruta, Sean Villanueva and Nicolas Favresse
The Borsch soup route, 12 pitches, 6b max, 600m, climbed in a 12-hour push by Nicolas Favresse, Aleksej Jaruta and Jean-Louis Wertz. Possibly an unnamed tower, so we propose the name The Borsch soup tower
The Chastity belt of Sean, 5 pitches, 6c max, 250m climbed in a 5-hour push by Aleksej Jaruta, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva. Possibly an unnamed tower, so we propose the name The Chastity Tower
Le Sentier des Myopes, 14 pitches, 7a+ max, 650m climbed in a 13-hour push by Nicolas Favresse and Jean-Louis Wertz. Possibly an unnamed tower, so we propose the name The Myope Tower
The Maculi’s ritual, 12 pitches, 7b max, 600m climbed in a 11-hour push by Aleksej Jaruta and Nicolas Favresse. Possibly an unnamed tower, so we propose the name Maculi’s Tower

All the best!
Nico Favresse

The team thanks: Patagonia, SCARPAPetzl, Arkose, Julbo, Lyofood, Samaya, Reel rock, Totem Cams, Alien, Pepite fruits secs, Grade 7 Equipment, Highsports Gothenburg, Nomade Aventure and the Belgian Alpine Club for their crucial help making this adventure possible!

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NEWS / Related news:
24.09.2021

Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
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Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta

Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Jean-Louis Wertz are currently climbing in Greenland with Aleksej Jaruta from Sweden. After having reached the island by sailing boat from France, the team managed to establish the first route up the steep Siren Tower.


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A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.

Greenland 2014 and Baffin island: climbing at Gibbs Fjord by Favresse, Ditto and Villanueva
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The final report by Nicolas Favresse about the Greenland 2014 expedition, carried out together with Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Sean Villanueva. This final update includes the exploration at Gibbs Fjord, Baffin Island
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Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
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Two prizes awarded last night in Chamonix during the IXX Piolet d'Or: Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama, and the Big Walls in Greenland by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse and Ben Ditto.
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Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.
Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto, final routes in Greenland
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Nico Favresse, his brother Olivier, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto are now sailing home after a final flurry up the granite walls of Greenland.
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The Devil’s Brew, new Greenland route for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
From 12 to 22 July Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto of the Greenland 2010 expedition established The Devil’s Brew (850m) on Seagull wall, Greenland.
Greenland 2010, two new routes for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
07.07.2010
Greenland 2010, two new routes for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
On the Red Wall in Greenland Nicolas Favresse and Ben Ditto carried out the first ascent of Seagull’s garden, while Olivier Favresse and Sean Villanueva established the nearby Red chili cracker.
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18.06.2010
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Climbers Nico and Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto are preparing for three month climbing trip to Greenland to explore huge virgin big walls.

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