East Greenland 2021: 8 new climbs, 7 big walls by Favresse, Jaruta, Villanueva, Wertz
The final report by Nicolas Favresse who this summer with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz and Aleksej Jaruta, climbed a series of new routes in the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord area of Eastern Greenland
We made it safely back from Greenland almost 3 weeks ago already! The transition from living for 3 months completely disconnected to a world at full speed has been tough, but we are slowly acclimatising back to technology!
Anyway, the Atlantic crossing was as tough as expected. We managed to get across making intermediate stops in Iceland, Scotland and Ireland in order to avoid getting caught in mean storms. Even so we did see huge waves and shared several dishes with the fishes along the way. After such a long time at sea, the feeling of getting back on a solid ground where you can run and pee on a tree feels fantastic!
Although the sailing to Greenland and back was long and petty uncomfortable, it did add a nice spice to our adventure and helped us have an appreciative mindset and contributed to having a creative mind.
During the 3-month climbing expedition we sailed for about 45 days and spent 45 days on land. We managed to open 8 new routes and test the acoustics of 7 big walls in the area of Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord. After climbing 4 routes in the Mythics Cirque we used inflatable kayaks to access other big walls deeper in the Fjord. The Kangertitivatsiaq Fjord area is incredibly beautiful and wild and hosts what seems to be infinite big wall climbing possibilities. We used no bolts nor piton during the whole expedition. But we did use chalk and underwear!
The Wall of plank, possible first ascent of the Siren Tower, 16 pitches of 7b+ max with an alternative 8a variation (The Jaruta variation freed by Aleksej Jaruta), 700m climbed over a 5 day capsule style ascent by Sean Villanueva, Aleksej Jaruta, Nicolas Favresse and Jean-Louis Wertz
The Olympic speed climbing record, 11 pitches, 7a+ max, 550 m, Aurora peak climbed in a 8 hour push by Sean Villanueva and Jean-Louis Wertz
The Russian/ Belgian route, 10 pitches, 7b max, 550m on Aurora peak climbed in a 9 hour push by Aleksej Jaruta and Nicolas Favresse
Daddy’s sweet tooth, 17 pitches, 7b max, 800m, Ataatap Tower, finishing up Built Fjord Tough (Mike Libecki, Ethan Pringle) for the last 7 pitches, climbed in a 18-hour push by Aleksej Jaruta, Sean Villanueva and Nicolas Favresse
The Borsch soup route, 12 pitches, 6b max, 600m, climbed in a 12-hour push by Nicolas Favresse, Aleksej Jaruta and Jean-Louis Wertz. Possibly an unnamed tower, so we propose the name The Borsch soup tower
The Chastity belt of Sean, 5 pitches, 6c max, 250m climbed in a 5-hour push by Aleksej Jaruta, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva. Possibly an unnamed tower, so we propose the name The Chastity Tower
Le Sentier des Myopes, 14 pitches, 7a+ max, 650m climbed in a 13-hour push by Nicolas Favresse and Jean-Louis Wertz. Possibly an unnamed tower, so we propose the name The Myope Tower
The Maculi’s ritual, 12 pitches, 7b max, 600m climbed in a 11-hour push by Aleksej Jaruta and Nicolas Favresse. Possibly an unnamed tower, so we propose the name Maculi’s Tower
All the best!
The team thanks: Patagonia, SCARPA, Petzl, Arkose, Julbo, Lyofood, Samaya, Reel rock, Totem Cams, Alien, Pepite fruits secs, Grade 7 Equipment, Highsports Gothenburg, Nomade Aventure and the Belgian Alpine Club for their crucial help making this adventure possible!