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Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
30/07/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič climb Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit
On 12 July 2016 Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič reached the summit of Broad Peak. Two weeks later they climbed the Northwest Ridge of Gasherbrum IV, reaching the North Summit (7900m) on 26 July 2016.
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
27/07/2016 - Alpinism
Cima Busazza, Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climb new Dolomites route
On 17 and 18 July 2016 Manrico Dell'Agnola and Maurizio Giordani climbed a new route up the immense SW Face of Cima Busazza (Civetta group, Dolomites). The 800m climb breaches difficulties up to VII/VII+, includes a short section of A2 aid, and is protected by trad gear and few pegs.
Baffin Island, Ragni return after new routes
26/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, Ragni return after new routes
More news from the Italian-Belgian team comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo, Luca Schiera, Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva currently climbing on Baffin Island. The climbers have forged a further two new routes in Stewart valley and the Ragni di Lecco alpinists are now returning.
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years old. Both were expert alpinists. Iannilli was definitely one of...
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Col Nudo, Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata score first repeat of Miotto-Saviane-Corona
On 7 July 7 2016 Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata carried out the first repeat of Via Miotto-Saviane-Corona up the north face of Col Nudo (Col Brie), first climbed from 5 - 7 June 1982 by Franco Miotto, Benito Saviane and Mauro Corona.
Baffin Island, new big wall by Belgian-Italian team in Stewart Valley
05/07/2016 - Alpinism
Baffin Island, new big wall by Belgian-Italian team in Stewart Valley
An international expedition of alpinists comprised of Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo De Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera currently operating on Baffin Island have established a new, near 1000m route up Great Sail Peak, Stewart Valley.
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
30/06/2016 - Climbing
#Norwegianstyle, new trad climb on Norway's Preikestolen
On 13/06/2016 Jon Egil Auestad and Øyvind Salvesen made the first ascent of #Norwegianstyle, a new trad climb up Preikestolen (Pulpit rock) in Norway.
Kishtwar Shivling East Pillar first climbed by Italian team
22/06/2016 - Alpinism
Kishtwar Shivling East Pillar first climbed by Italian team
Alpinism: from 8 - 9 June 2016 the Italian alpinists Nicola Binelli, Luca Cornella, Silvestro Franchini and Tomas Franchini climbed the virgin East Pillar of Kishtwar Shivling in the Indian Himalaya.
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
01/06/2016 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
An expedition composed of the mountaineers Corrado Pesce, Damien Tomasi, Martin Elias, Sebastien Corret, Fanny Tomasi-Schmutz and Elodie Le Comte has repeated two routes on Bhagirathi III (6454m) in the Indian Himalayas. While the men repeated Estrella Impossible, the women repeated the Scottish Pillar. Corrado Korra Pesce provides the expedition...
Nanga Parbat film - Reinhold Messner, Günther Messner and choices
12/05/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat film - Reinhold Messner, Günther Messner and choices
PlayAlpinismo films: Nanga Parbat by Joseph Vilsmaier is the story of Reinhold and Günther Messner, of their great first ascent of the Nanga Parbat Rupal Face, of a tragedy and how a mountain can mark someone's destiny. The film review by Vinicio Stefanello.
King of Kanzi - 80's Climbing Festival at Kanzianiberg in Austria
11/05/2016 - Events
King of Kanzi - 80's Climbing Festival at Kanzianiberg in Austria
From 13 to 15 May 2016 Austria’s Kanzianiberg will host King of Kanzi, the 1980’s climbing festival with special guests Hans Kammerlander, Klemen Premrl, Sean Villanueva, Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse and Bob Shepton.
Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams above Val Gardena with Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk
29/04/2016 - Climbing
Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams above Val Gardena with Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk
Climbing video: Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk repeat Traumpfeiler, the famous multi-pitch sports climb at Cansla in the Dolomites.
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the reconnaissance phase is longer than expected.
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
21/04/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
On 05/04/2016 the Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Südwandwächter (M5, WI4+, 600m), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Grossglockner (3798m) in Austria.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.