471 News found

Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.

Luis Penín and Pablo Gomez from Spain have repeated Felsige Gärten in Austria's Tirol.

The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean...

On the Breitwangflue in Switzerland Dani Arnold has climbed three difficult ice and mixed routes, Flying Circus, Mach 3 and Crack Baby in a single day.

On 27/12/2012 Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali completed Sfasciacarrozze (WI 6+, M7, 210m), a new ice and mixed climb established over three days on Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.

The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).

'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of...

Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Mathias Nössig have made the first ascent of three difficult new icefalls in the Ötztal, Austria, including Rätselburg (WI7+, 80m).

Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.

Two difficult new routes in the Brenta Dolomites: the mixed climb 'Brothers' up Cima Grostè and the rock climb 'Ladri' up Campanile Basso.

Colin Haley and Jon Walsh have made the first free ascent of Tobogan (700m, AI4, M6) on Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia.

Two new routes have been established up the NW Face of Hochgasser in Austria: Ben Gassa and Wurzer Rinne.

In October 2012 British alpinists Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden made the first ascent of Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.

This August the Slovak climbers Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik forged a new line up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (6286m), Karakorum. Their "Out of Reality" ends on the shoulder circa 400m below the summit.

Slovenian alpinists Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindic have repeated Divine Providence up Grand Pilier d'Angle on Mont Blanc on-sight in 32 hours.

In spring 2012 a Slovenian expedition to the Revelation Mountain range in Alaska resulted in a flurry of first ascents up virgin peaks. The trip report by expedition leader Anze Cokl.