476 News found

Rossano Libera recalls the first integral repeat of Birthright (Grands Charmoz - Mont Blanc) carried out in 2008 with Claudio Pozzi.

On 16/03/2013 the British alpinists Mark Thomas and Dave Almond made the first ascent of a new mixed and ice climb, Jottnar (250m, VIII,8), up the North Face of Aiguille Du Midi, Mont Blanc.

The video of Ritter der Kokosnuss, the mixed climb put up by Robert Jasper on the Breitwangflue at Kandersteg in Switzerland.

Martin Riegler and Florian Riegler have made the first free ascent of Pinocchio (M8+, WI 5), a mixed climb in Val Travenanzes (Dolomites) put up in 2010 by Valentin Riegler and Hannes Lemayr.

On 13/02/2013 Robert Jasper made the first free ascent of the ice and mixed climb Ritter der Kokosnuß (M12, WI5, 165m) up the Breitwangflue at Kandersteg in Switzerland.

Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.

Luis Penín and Pablo Gomez from Spain have repeated Felsige Gärten in Austria's Tirol.

The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style.

On the Breitwangflue in Switzerland Dani Arnold has climbed three difficult ice and mixed routes, Flying Circus, Mach 3 and Crack Baby in a single day.

On 27/12/2012 Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali completed Sfasciacarrozze (WI 6+, M7, 210m), a new ice and mixed climb established over three days on Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.

The 12-13/1/2013 Enrico Bonino, Giancarlo Bazzocchi, Elio Bonfanti and Andrea Fazzari made the first ascent of "Dio li Fa... e poi li accoppia" 60m, M5 WI5 5c + RX) a new mixed climb in Valnontey (Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy).

'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy...

Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Mathias Nössig have made the first ascent of three difficult new icefalls in the Ötztal, Austria, including Rätselburg (WI7+, 80m).

Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.

Two difficult new routes in the Brenta Dolomites: the mixed climb 'Brothers' up Cima Grostè and the rock climb 'Ladri' up Campanile Basso.

Colin Haley and Jon Walsh have made the first free ascent of Tobogan (700m, AI4, M6) on Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia.