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Jon Cardwell climbs Biographie at Céüse in France
30/05/2016 - Climbing
Jon Cardwell climbs Biographie at Céüse in France
At Ceuse in France Jon Cardwell has redpointed Biographie, the famous 9a+ sports climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001.
Mummy heads into the mountains
09/05/2016 - Alpinism
Mummy heads into the mountains
Although Mother’s Day was yesterday, today we’re publishing this short and beautiful write-up by Federica Maslowsky who reminds us what it’s like to be a mother (and alpinist). Long live mothers, every day!
Half Dome 1977 and the pioneering flight in Yosemite
22/04/2016 - Alpinism
Half Dome 1977 and the pioneering flight in Yosemite
The short film by Carl Boenish that documents the flight carried out by Rich Piccirilli, Jim Hanbury and Brian Johnson from Half Dome (Yosemite) that marked a pivotal moment in the history of BASE jumping.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
19/04/2016 - Events
Melloblocco 2016: a story that goes back a long way
Michele Comi, Nicola Noè and Stefano Scetti, the historical organisers of Melloblocco, talk about the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016. Over 1300 climbers are set to take part in the 13th...
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young sport.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Lino D'Angelo farewell
30/03/2016 - Alpinism
Lino D'Angelo farewell
Lino D’Angelo, the man and mountaineer who came to represent Gran Sasso and Pietracamela, died in L'Aquila at the age of 95. An important piece of the history of mountaineering. The obituary by Roberto Iannilli.
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
23/03/2016 - Climbing
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
In November 2015 Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi and Marco Maggioni made the first ascent of El Chaman Loco up the El Chaman face at El Salto, Mexico. Some pitches along this 400m climb still need to be freed, with difficulties estimated at 8c. The trip report by Paolo Marazzi.
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
02/03/2016 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
Over a 15-day period from 16 January to 20 February Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Thomas Senf repeated Riders on the Storm (7c+, A2, 1300m), the iconic multi-pitch rock climb up the Central Tower of the Torres del Paine in Patagonia. Although some sections were climbed with the use of...
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
26/02/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
On Friday 26 February 2016 Italy's Simone Moro, Spain's Alex Txikon and Pakistan's Ali Sadpara successfully carried out the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan). Italy's Tamara Lunger stopped her bid on the ridge below the summit. Towards 20:00 circa (Pakistan time) all four alpinists returned...
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During the 24th edition, Polish mountaineer Wojciech Kurtyka will receive the...
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
18/02/2016 - Alpinism
Henry Worsley and the Urge to Explore
In remembering Henry Worsley, the British explorer who lost his life during his attempt to cross the Antarctic continent, from one coast to the other, solo, unsupported and unassisted, Marcello Rossi discusses the value and importance of exploration by placing it in the current historical and social context.
Melloblocco 2016 and the hormonal bouldering storms
17/02/2016 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2016 and the hormonal bouldering storms
The date is set for the 13th edition Melloblocco. An invitation, bordering between fantasy and history, to join the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place, as ever, in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016.
Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl breakthrough with Interstellar Spice at Helmcken Falls
08/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl breakthrough with Interstellar Spice at Helmcken Falls
At the Helmcken Falls in Canada Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have made the first ascent of Interstellar Spice, a new ice climb they describe as setting "a new level of difficulty for any route of this style."

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