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Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Buoux Face Ouest reopens to climbing
    22/04/2010 - Climbing
    Buoux Face Ouest reopens to climbing
    After 25 years the climbing ban at Face Ouest at Buoux has now been lifted.
    Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
    20/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Simon Gietl, from the new route in Patagonia to the Phantom der Zinne
    Even if spring is at the doorstep, it's worth analysing the climbs of Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, who this winter carried out the first ascent in Patagonia together with Roger Schäli before repeating the famous Phantom der Zinner on the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites together with Marc...
    Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
    19/04/2010 - Alpinism
    Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
    On 17 April Edurne Pasaban from Spain's Basque country reached the summit of Annapurna, her 13th 8000m peak, while Joao Garcia from Portugal completed the collection of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Asier Izaguirre, Alex Chicón, Nacho Orviz and the Sherpa Mingma, Pasang and Gempu from the Pasaban...
    Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
    18/04/2010 - Climbing
    Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
    Gabriele Moroni and the first Italian ascent of Action Directe 9a, the route freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and which still today represents an important test for sport climbing.
    Rock climbing in Cuba
    16/04/2010 - Climbing
    Rock climbing in Cuba
    Armando Menocal explores the delights of climbing in Cuba around the Valle de Vinales and suggests 40 superb routes at the main crag Mogote del Valle.
    Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
    14/04/2010 - Climbing
    Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
    Angelika Rainer and her repeat of Outsider at Cornalba.
    Maja Vidmar 8b+ on-sight at Oliana, Spain
    14/04/2010 - Climbing
    Maja Vidmar 8b+ on-sight at Oliana, Spain
    Maja Vidmar from Slovenia has carried out her first ever on-sight of an 8b+, Humildes pa casa 8b+ at Oliana, Spain
    Rainbow Slab, Llanberis slate climbing in North Wales
    14/04/2010 - Climbing
    Rainbow Slab, Llanberis slate climbing in North Wales
    Rainbow Slab is arguably the jewel in the crown of Llanberis slate. The immense, smooth face is broken by a series of smaller ripples and of course by the rainbow itself, a pulsing vein which arches steeply in all its beauty from right to left.
    Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    12/04/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
    The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
    Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba
    07/04/2010 - Climbing
    Adam Ondra, Goldrake 9a+ at Cornalba
    17-year-old Adam Ondra has carried out the first ascent of Goldrake 9a+, a route bolted by Bruno "Camos" Tassi years ago at Cornalba, Italy.
    Tito Traversa, 8a at 8 years of age
    06/04/2010 - Climbing
    Tito Traversa, 8a at 8 years of age
    8-year-old Tito Traversa has redpointed his first 8a, Faith at Donnas in Valle d'Aosta, Italy
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    30/03/2010 - Events
    Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
    The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
    Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
    29/03/2010 - Climbing
    Prinzip Hoffnung, second ascent by Alex Luger
    On 06/12/2009 Alex Luger from Austria carried out the first repeat of Prinzip Hoffnung, the trad route established by Beat Kammerlander at the Bürser Platte in Austria.
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    26/03/2010 - Climbing
    Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
    American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.
    Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
    23/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
    On 19 March 2010 Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini carried out the first winter ascent and third ascent overall of Captain Skyhook (500m + 380m pedestal, 7b+) on the Northwest Face of the Civetta, Dolomites.

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