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New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
30/09/2014 - Alpinism
New route by Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz up Sas Ciampac in the Dolomites
In October 2013 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Rien ne va plus (435m, 7b+ max, 7a obligatory), a new climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac, Puez group, Dolomites.
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
Alex Luger and his route Psychogramm at Bürser Platte
27/09/2014 - Climbing
Alex Luger and his route Psychogramm at Bürser Platte
The video of Alex Luger climbing Psychogramm, the trad route he freed on 13/02/2014 at Bürser Platte in Austria.
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
26/09/2014 - Climbing
Pinne gialle, new climb by Manolo at Tognazza
On 23/09/2014 Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla made the first free ascent of Pinne gialle, a difficult new 4-pitch climb up the side of the large central corner at Tognazza (Passo Rolle, Dolomites, Italy).
Cresciano Night Session 2014
25/09/2014 - Events
Cresciano Night Session 2014
On Saturday 4 October 2014 the night bouldering meeting will take place at Cresciano, Canton Ticino, Switzerland. A brief introduction by event organiser Luca di Biase.
Zanzara e Labbradoro, the Roberto Bassi film première at Arco
25/09/2014 - Events
Zanzara e Labbradoro, the Roberto Bassi film première at Arco
On Saturday 27 September 2014, at 20:30 the Casino in Arco (Tn) will host the film première Zanzara e Labbradoro - Storie, mani e silenzi di Roberto Bassi (Stories, hands and silence by Roberto Bassi), written and directed by Lia G. Beltrami and produced by Aurora Vision.
Neil Mawson makes first ascent of Choronzon E10 7a in Wales
24/09/2014 - Climbing
Neil Mawson makes first ascent of Choronzon E10 7a in Wales
On 21 September 2014 Neil Mawson made the first ascent of Choronzon at Pembroke in Wales. Graded E10 7a, this checks in as one of the hardest trad routes in the UK.
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
22/09/2014 - Alpinism
Project Fear, important new variation on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo by Dave MacLeod
On the North Face of Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Dave MacLeod from Scotland has climbed Project Fear, a difficult new 130m variation that leads to the crux pitch of Pan Aroma and breaches difficulties up to 8c.
Zippettes: the art of slipping off a hold
20/09/2014 - Climbing
Zippettes: the art of slipping off a hold
The video of Giuliano Cameroni demonstrating the art of 'Zippettes', how to slip off holds when climbing and bouldering.
Magic of Limestone, the Gran Sasso bouldering film
19/09/2014 - Climbing
Magic of Limestone, the Gran Sasso bouldering film
The trailer of the film Magia di Calcare (Magic of Limestone) by Roberto Parisse that documents the history of bouldering at the Gran Sasso in central Italy and the making of the guidebook, due out in spring 2015.
Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
18/09/2014 - Climbing
Rocky Mountain National Park, Chaos Canyon - a bouldering Mecca by Verhoeven and Saurwein
Jorg Verhoeven and Katharina Saurwein, currently touring the Rocky Mountains National Park where the Dutchman recently sent The Wheel Of Chaos V14 (8B+) and the Austrian repeated Riddles in the Park V12 (8A+), provide insight into one of the most famous bouldering areas in the USA.
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
17/09/2014 - Alpinism
Bilibino big walls climbed by Australians in Russia
This summer Australian climbers Chris Fitzgerald and Chris Warner, acting on a photo taken by a Russian friend, travelled to the remote Bilibino area in eastern Russia where they made the first ascent of 6 new routes on what they believe are 4 previously virgin peaks. The report by Chris...
Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites
16/09/2014 - Alpinism
Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch, Cima Grande di Lavaredo: Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer climb free in the Dolomites
On 17/08/2014 German alpinist Ines Papert made the first one day ascent of Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch 8a, a route established in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger. The second free ascent was carried out by Austria's Lisi Steurer on 28/08/2014.
Kalymnos, climbing on the island of Neverland
16/09/2014 - Climbing
Kalymnos, climbing on the island of Neverland
Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè recount how Kalymnos appears towards the end of summer 2014. An island seemingly made for all the climbers in the world
Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites
15/09/2014 - Alpinism
Forza 5, new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval in the Dolomites
Giovanni Bergamin, Francesco Leardi, Giuliano Pettenuzzo and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of Forza 5 (280m, 6b/A1), a new climb up Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites.
Adam Ondra and Jain Kim Lead World Champions!
14/09/2014 - Competitions
Adam Ondra and Jain Kim Lead World Champions!
This evening at Gijón in Spain Adam Ondra and Jain Kim won the Lead World Championship 2014. Silver was won by Ramon Julien Puigblanque and Mina Markovic, bronze by Sachi Amma e Magdalena Röck. Speed was won by Danyl Boldyrev and Alina Gaidamakina, while Urko Carmona Barandiaran and Christa Brelsford,...