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Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
30/03/2020 - Alpinism
Aiguille du Plan Mystery solved by Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská
From 21 to 22 February Slovak mountaineers Ondrej Húserka and Evka Milovská made the first ascent of Mystery (85 °, M8, C1, 600m (15 pitches) on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. Húserka reports.
Linea Continua, the film by Hervé and Marco Barmasse on YouTube
27/03/2020 - Alpinism
Linea Continua, the film by Hervé and Marco Barmasse on YouTube
Hervé Barmasse has published 'Linea Continua’ on YouTube, the film about the new route he established on the South Face of the Matterhorn with his father Marco. First ascended in 2010, it is still unrepeated.
Tamara Lunger home training
20/03/2020 - Alpinism
Tamara Lunger home training
Join South Tyrolean mountaineer Tamara Lunger every two days as she broadcasts her home training on her Instagram channel. A home workout to stay in shape and have fun.
Luka Lindič & Luka Krajnc add new route to Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia
19/03/2020 - Alpinism
Luka Lindič & Luka Krajnc add new route to Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia
Interview with Slovenian alpinists Luka Lindič and Luka Krajnc after their first ascent of Mir, a new climb up Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia.
Triglav North Face, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climb For Friends
12/03/2020 - Alpinism
Triglav North Face, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climb For Friends
On the North Face of Triglav, the highest mountain in Slovenia, Matej Balažic and Marjan Kozole climbed Za prijatelje, For Friends. This combination of four summer rock climbs transforms into a logical winter line circa 1000m high and was climbed with one bivouac from 15-16 February 2020. This is probably...
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
05/03/2020 - Interviews
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
28/02/2020 - Alpinism
Dolomites Full Contact climbed by Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner
Austrian mountain guide Albert Leichtfried reports about his first ascent, with Benedikt Purner, of the mixed climb up the Murfrëitturm tower in the Sella group of the Dolomites.
Simon Gietl completes solo Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment
25/02/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes solo Tre Cime di Lavaredo winter enchainment
From 24 to 25 February the South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl carried out a winter crossing of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo on his own, linking Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.
Jonathan Siegrist fires One Hundred Proof, new 9a+ at Mount Potosi
24/02/2020 - Climbing
Jonathan Siegrist fires One Hundred Proof, new 9a+ at Mount Potosi
American climber Jonathan Siegrist has made the first ascent of One Hundred Proof, a 9a+ sports climb at Mount Potosi above Las Vegas in Nevada, USA.
Apus added to Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites
20/02/2020 - Alpinism
Apus added to Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites
winter mountaineering in the Zoldo Dolomites: on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero the mountaineers Mirco Grasso and Alvaro Lafuente have made the first ascent of Apus, a mixed route that shares the first 5 pitches of Madre Tierra then ascends an evident gully all the way to the summit. Grasso reports
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
17/02/2020 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
14/02/2020 - Alpinism
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.
Zsigmondycouloir up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites by Hannes Egarter, Hannes Pfeifhofer
11/02/2020 - Alpinism
Zsigmondycouloir up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites by Hannes Egarter, Hannes Pfeifhofer
South Tyrolean mountain guide Hannes Pfeifhofer reports about the first ascent of Zsigmondycouloir on the Zsigmondykopf up Elferkofel in Sexten Dolomites, established with Hannes Egarter
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
05/02/2020 - Alpinism
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero (2412m) in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a failed first attempt with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero Arena.
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
24/01/2020 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Grandes Murailles winter enchainment completed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti
After 4 days and 40 hours of climbing, the two Italian mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti completed the first winter enchainment of the Furggen chain, Matterhorn, Grandes Murailles chain and Petites Murailles chain. A 'Himalayan ridge above home.'
In Rätikon Fabian Buhl finally frees demanding Déjà multi-pitch
22/01/2020 - Alpinism
In Rätikon Fabian Buhl finally frees demanding Déjà multi-pitch
In the Rätikon massif in Switzerland German mountaineer Fabian Buhl has completed the first free ascent of Déjà, a 400m multi-pitch alpine rock climb graded 8c+.