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Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
05/03/2020 - Interviews
Simon Gietl Tre Cime di Lavaredo solo winter enchainment interview
Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
26/02/2020 - Alpinism
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
French mountain guide Arnaud Petit and Jonathan Crison have led a young FFME expedition to Jordan where they established a new route up Jebel Rum in the Wadi Rum massif. Voie du Coeur (430m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory) was first ascended with Eline Le Menestrel, Solène Amoros, Eloi Peretti, Romaric...
Apus added to Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites
20/02/2020 - Alpinism
Apus added to Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites
Winter mountaineering in the Zoldo Dolomites: on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero the mountaineers Mirco Grasso and Alvaro Lafuente have made the first ascent of Apus, a mixed route that shares the first 5 pitches of Madre Tierra then ascends an evident gully all the way to the summit. Grasso reports
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva climb new route on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
19/02/2020 - Alpinism
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva climb new route on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
On Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia Belgian climbers Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll have made the first ascent the mixed climb El Flechazo (850m, 7b, M3, WI5+).
Cerro Torre Climb & Fly Fabian Buhl interview
18/02/2020 - Interviews
Cerro Torre Climb & Fly Fabian Buhl interview
Interview with 29-year-old German mountaineer Fabian Buhl who on 7 February flew off Cerro Torre in Patagonia with his paraglider.
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
17/02/2020 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
14/02/2020 - Alpinism
Marc-Andre's Visión completed on Torre Egger in Patagonia
Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts and Horacio Gratton have completed Marc-Andre’s Visión, a new route up the East Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia envisaged in 2016 by the late Marc-André Leclerc.
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
13/02/2020 - Alpinism
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
On the north face of the Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto have established Il dado è tratto. The new route provides 'spectacular' climbing. Della Bordella reports directly from El Chalten.
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
06/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor
In Valle Cochamo in Chile Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Teofil Vlad have made the first ascent of El ultimo Vuelo del Condor. The new multi-pitch rock climb is dedicated to Zsolt Torok who perished in August 2019.
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
05/02/2020 - Alpinism
Madre Tierra on Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero in Zoldo Dolomites by Santiago Padrós, Diego Toigo
Spanish mountain guide Santiago Padrós reports about a big new winter climb up Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero (2412m) in the Zoldo Dolomites, established on 30/01/2020 with Diego Toigo. The mixed outing is called Madre Tierra and was completed after a failed first attempt with Giovanni Andriano and Ruggero Arena.
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
25/01/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing in Sudan, new routes in Taka mountains above Kassala
Chris Warner from Australia reports about a rock climbing trip to Kassala in western Sudan with Jonny Baker which resulted in a handful of new routes in the Taka Mountains,
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Mount Shkhara in Georgia: new route, first winter ascent video by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
08/12/2019 - Alpinism
Mount Shkhara in Georgia: new route, first winter ascent video by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
The video documenting the new route and first winter ascent of Mt. Shkhara (5,203 m) in Georgia, carried out in February 2018 by Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze.
Leo Houlding & Co climb new route up Mount Roraima
07/12/2019 - Alpinism
Leo Houlding & Co climb new route up Mount Roraima
An international team led by Leo Houlding and including Wilson Cutbirth, Waldo Etherington, Dan Howard, Matt Pycroft, Anna Taylor has climbed a new route up Mt Roraima in Guyana.

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