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Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
10/01/2019 - Alpinism
Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb
Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
27/12/2018 - Interviews
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
24/12/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio and Simone Raina send Fortunadrago, historic 8B boulder problem at Varazze
At Varazze (Italy) Giorgia Tesio climbed her first 8B boulder problem, Fortunadrago. Repeated on the same day by Simone Raina, this historic bloc was the first 8B in the area, freed by local Christian Core.
Brenta Dolomites: new mixed climb up Cima Grostè
17/12/2018 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: new mixed climb up Cima Grostè
Jacopo Pellizzari introduces Siamo fuori dal Tunnel, a new mixed climb first ascended with Mauro Mabboni on 2 and 5 December 2018 up the West Face of Cima Grostè (Brenta Dolomites).
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
08/12/2018 - Alpinism
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
In Langental (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have climbed a possible new icefall they have called Airport. The line runs to the left of the classic Jumbo Jet drip and has been graded WI5+ M4 160m. Ladurner reports.
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees North America Wall variation on El Capitan
Climbing with Tommy Caldwell, on 19 November Sonnie Trotter made the first one day free ascent of a new all free variation to North America Wall / El Nino. The Canadian had discovered the 3-pitch variation, now called Pineapple Express, in 2017 with Alex Honnold.
Matilda Söderlund returns to form at Red River Gorge
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Matilda Söderlund returns to form at Red River Gorge
Swedish rock climber Matilda Söderlund has repeated Pure Imagination 8c+ at Red River Gorge, USA
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Liv Sansoz / Beyond climbing the 82 4000m peaks in the Alps
31/10/2018 - Interviews
Liv Sansoz / Beyond climbing the 82 4000m peaks in the Alps
Interview with French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz after having completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
30/10/2018 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
Czech alpinist Michal Coubal reports about a first ascent, carried out with Aja Coubalova up Punta Frida, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites: The Lights from the other World.
Federica Mingolla climbs old projects in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
18/10/2018 - Climbing
Federica Mingolla climbs old projects in Valle dell’Orco, Italy
Italian climber Federica Mingolla reports about her first free ascent in Valle Orco, Italy, of an old project bolted in 2001 by Giovannino Massari and now graded 8a+. The route joins another nearby line freed by Mingolla a year ago: Occhi Nuovi 8a+.
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...
Pale di San Martino Dolomites: Manolo and Narci Simion establish Bebe Forever up Tacca Bianca
16/10/2018 - Climbing
Pale di San Martino Dolomites: Manolo and Narci Simion establish Bebe Forever up Tacca Bianca
On 29 August 2018 Manolo (aka Maurizio Zanolla) and Narci Simion made the first free ascent of Bebe Forever (100m, max 7b/c max 6c), a new rock climb up Tacca Bianca (Val Canali, Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The line is dedicated to Gabriele 'Bebe' Simion, son of Narci. The...
Adam Ondra, Stefano Ghisolfi and the special sense of climbing at the Arco Champions Challenge
15/10/2018 - Events
Adam Ondra, Stefano Ghisolfi and the special sense of climbing at the Arco Champions Challenge
On Saturday 13 October 2018 Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi took part in the Champions Challenge at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Open to all, this was a day with the two champion athletes, at the Climbing Stadium and at the crag Pueblo di Massone.
Eleonora Delnevo & Co climb El Capitan Zodiac in Yosemite
12/10/2018 - Climbing
Eleonora Delnevo & Co climb El Capitan Zodiac in Yosemite
Eleonora Delnevo - the Italian paraclimber paralysed from the waist down after a mountaineering accident in 2015 - has climbed the Zodiac route on El Capitan in Yosemite together with Mauro Gibellini, Diego Pezzoli and Antonio Pozzi.
Champions Challenge: Adam Ondra - Stefano Ghisolfi interview before Saturday showdown
11/10/2018 - Interviews
Champions Challenge: Adam Ondra - Stefano Ghisolfi interview before Saturday showdown
Double interview with Stefano Ghisolfi and Adam Ondra who on Saturday 13 October 2018 at Arco di Trento (Garda Trentino), Italy, will take part in the Champions Challenge. This event is open to all; from the Climbing Stadium artificial wall to the historic Massone crag, this promises to be a...