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Jakob Schubert frees Kein Licht kein Schatten in Ötztal, Austria
06/11/2016 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert frees Kein Licht kein Schatten in Ötztal, Austria
In Ötztal, Austria, Jakob Schubert ha made the first ascent of 'Kein Licht kein Schatten' a 9a sports climb that is now the most difficult in the valley.
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
31/10/2016 - Alpinism
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
On the 'most beautiful and famous big wall in Corsica', i.e. Punta U Corbu at Col de Bavella, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia have completed their 'Ro-Ma Project’ to create the new multi-pitch rock climb Ro.Ma. (180m, 7c max, 7a+ obl). Oviglia provides the details.
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya
British mountaineers Dave Sharpe and John Crook have made the first ascent of Raja Peak via their new ‘Transcendence’ up the mountain’s North Face above the Temasa Valley. In the Miyar valley the duo made the first ascent of ‘Last Chance Saloon’(1300m, Scottish 4, TD-) up James Peak (5780m), while...
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
During his first visit to Yosemite, USA, Czech climber Adam Ondra has immediately begun attempting 'Dawn Wall', the hardest big wall climb in world freed on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni Battimelli.
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
06/10/2016 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...
Markus Pucher, Cerro Pollone alone and in winter in Patagonia
21/09/2016 - Alpinism
Markus Pucher, Cerro Pollone alone and in winter in Patagonia
Interview with Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher after his solo winter ascent of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia.
Asgard Jamming, the climbing style by Favresse & Villanueva
06/09/2016 - Alpinism
Asgard Jamming, the climbing style by Favresse & Villanueva
PlayAlpinismo films free of charge: Asgard Jamming. The adventure of Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Olivier Favresse, Stephane Hanssens and Silvia Vidal on Mount Asgard (Baffin Island) is an ode to happiness, climbing and discovery. The film review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil
29/08/2016 - Climbing
Sasha Di Giulian, Felipe Camargo free big wall at Pedra Riscada, Brazil
American rock climber Sasha Di Giulian and Felipe Camargo from Brazil have made the first free ascent of 'Planeta dos Macacos' (8a+, 650m) up one of the main peaks in the Pedra Riscada massif in Brazil. The big wall climb is believed to currently be the only route up the...
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
12/08/2016 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini / Turkey Crack at Cadarese
In mid-May French rock climber Caroline Ciavaldini made a rare ascent of Turkey Crack, an 8a trad climb at Cadarese. This is the story of her rare ascent.
Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
09/08/2016 - Alpinism
Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz climb Baffin Island The Turret by fair means
German alpinists Robert Jasper and Stefan Glowacz and photographer Klaus Fengler have just returned from an expedition to Baffin Island where, on the West Face of The Turret, they managed to repeat and add new free variations to Nuvualik, the climb established in June 1995 by Warren Hollinger, Jerry Gore...
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
03/08/2016 - Alpinism
Diamond Ridge, new route up Grandes Jorasses SSE Face. Interview with Simon Richardson
Interview with Simon Richardson who, together with Michael Rinn, made the first ascent of Diamond Ridge (1600m, 5c, AO) from 28 - 30 July 2016. This new alpine climb breaches the SSE Face of Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif).
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
Sachi Amma, Yuji Hirayama and Adam Ondra at Flatanger
07/07/2016 - Climbing
Sachi Amma, Yuji Hirayama and Adam Ondra at Flatanger
At Flatanger - Hanshellern in Norway Sachi Amma has repeated Thor’s Hammer 9a+, while Yuji Hirayama has redpointed Odin’s Eye 8c+ and Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of Right of Passage, 9a.

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