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Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
11/03/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
On 30-31/01/2016 the Slovak alpinists Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smolen made the first ascent of Asado (665m, 7a+, M8, A2), a new climb up the South Face of Fitz Roy in patagonia.
Torres del Paine National Park, first repeat photographs of Patagonia's glaciers
09/03/2016 - Environment
Torres del Paine National Park, first repeat photographs of patagonia's glaciers
Italian photographer Fabiano Ventura is currently in the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile, patagonia. The expedition he is leading plans to photograph the exact same locations as those taken by Alberto Maria De Agostini as part of multi-year project "On the trails of the glaciers" in order to...
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
05/03/2016 - Alpinism
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
Jozef Kristoffy, Martin Krasnansky and Vlado Linek have made the first ascent of El Condor Pasa (8b, 700m) on Cerro Trinidad Central in the Cochamo valley in patagonia, Chile.
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
02/03/2016 - Alpinism
patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
Over a 15-day period from 16 January to 20 February Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Thomas Senf repeated Riders on the Storm (7c+, A2, 1300m), the iconic multi-pitch rock climb up the Central Tower of the Torres del Paine in patagonia. Although some sections were climbed with the use of...
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
19/02/2016 - Alpinism
New Japanese climbs in Argentine patagonia
In January and February 2016 the Japanese climbers Takaaki Nagato and Jumbo Katsutaka Yokoyama established two new routes in patagonia: Knobmania (7c, 400m) up the West Face of Aguja El Tridente and Pilar Canino (7b, 600m) up the West Face of Cerro Piergiorgio.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
16/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
Interview with American alpinist Mikey Schaefer who, together with Andrew Rothner and Josh Wharton, carried out the second free ascent of the Southeast Ridge Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in patagonia from 4 to 6 February 2016. The first free ascent was carried out in 2012 by David Lama and...
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
04/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out...
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
03/02/2016 - Alpinism
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (patagonia)
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit...
Fuiste Alpiste, the video by Ermanno Salvaterra about how Patagonia once used to be
29/01/2016 - Alpinism
Fuiste Alpiste, the video by Ermanno Salvaterra about how patagonia once used to be
Ermanno Salvaterra documents the climbing and patagonia in1993-94 in this video, Fuiste Alpiste, recently updated with names of the climbers of those unforgettable six months spent, more than twenty years ago, at the base camp of Cerro Torre.
Adiós Iñaki Coussirat
28/01/2016 - Alpinism
Adiós Iñaki Coussirat
On 21/01/2015 Inaki Coussirat died while climbing Cerro Fitz Roy in patagonia. Marcello Cominetti remembers the promising young Argentine alpinist.
Ragni route on Fitz Roy, first repeat by Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci
22/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ragni route on Fitz Roy, first repeat by Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci
On 19 January 2016 the Italian Ragni di Lecco alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci made the first repeat of Via dei Ragni up the East Pillar of Fitz Roy, established in 1976 by Casimiro Ferrari and Vittorio Meles.
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
22/01/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in patagonia
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, Patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
13/01/2016 - Alpinism
Psycho Vertical, Torre Egger, patagonia first repeat in 29 years. Interview with Korra Pesce
From 7 to 9 January 2016 Tomy Aguilo, Corrado Korra Pesce, Roland Striemitzer, Iñaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina made the coveted second ascent of Psycho Vertical, the route first ascended in December 1986 up the southeast face of Torre Egger in patagonia by the Slovenians Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo and...
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
08/01/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy climbed in a day by Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt
American alpinists Colin Haley and Andy Wyatt have made an astoundingly fast ascent of Fitz Roy in patagonia, requiring just 21 hours and 8 minutes to climb the mountain via the Supercanaleta route and descend via the French route and return to the starting point.