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Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
11/11/2016 - Alpinism
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
In September 2016 Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov made the first ascent of Moveable Feast (1400m), a difficult new climb the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalayas.
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
10/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.
Yosemite climbing action by Katharina Saurwein, Jorg Verhoeven, Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
10/11/2016 - Climbing
Yosemite climbing action by Katharina Saurwein, Jorg Verhoeven, Jacopo Larcher & Barbara Zangerl
Climbing news from Yosemite: Katharina Saurwein has repeated Final Frontier, while on El Capitan Jorg Verhoeven is attempting Dihedral Wall and Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl are trying their luck at the free version of The Zodiac.
World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
09/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
The World Youth Championships are currently being held at Guangzhou in China. The Lead discipline was won by Ashima Shiraishi and Sam Avezou (Youth B), Janja Garnbret and Giorgio Bendazzoli (Youth A) and Margo Hayes and Simon Lorenzi (Juniors)
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
08/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
Interview with South Tyrol’s Simon Gietl who, together with, Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of ‘Das Erbe der Väter’ up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. After sharing a start with Via Comici, the new route runs to the right, breaches difficulties up to...
Michael Piccolruaz flashes 8B boulder in Austria's Maltatal
08/11/2016 - Climbing
Michael Piccolruaz flashes 8B boulder in Austria's Maltatal
Italian climber Michael Piccolruaz has flashed ‘Wrestling with an alligator’, an 8B boulder problem freed by Klem Loskot in the Maltatal, Austria.
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3
Our third update regarding Adam Ondra and his progress on 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. The Czech climber has climbed to the top of El Capitan and unlocked the sequence to the crux pitch on this extremely difficult big wall freed by Tommy Caldwell...
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Jakob Schubert frees Kein Licht kein Schatten in Ötztal, Austria
06/11/2016 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert frees Kein Licht kein Schatten in Ötztal, Austria
In Ötztal, Austria, Jakob Schubert ha made the first ascent of 'Kein Licht kein Schatten' a 9a sports climb that is now the most difficult in the valley.
Chris Sharma / 'Perfecto Mundo' project at Margalef
05/11/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma / 'Perfecto Mundo' project at Margalef
The video of American climber Chris Sharma attempting 'Perfecto Mundo' a possible 9b+ project at Margalef, Spain.
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
Christoph Hainz makes solo first ascent of Golden Pillar of Ortler
03/11/2016 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz makes solo first ascent of Golden Pillar of Ortler
On 29/08/2016 Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of 'Golden Pillar of Ortler‘ (max VI+ , 750m) up the SW pillar of Mt. Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Italy.
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
02/11/2016 - Interviews
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
Interview with Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who on 01/11/2016 made the first repeat of Es Pontas, the famous deep water solo climb first ascended a decade ago by Chris Sharma on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites
02/11/2016 - Alpinism
L'uomo volante on Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Dolomites
On the Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites, Francesco Leardi and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of 'L'uomo volante'. The new rock climb is dedicated to Dario Zanon, an Italian BASE Jumper who died in June 2016 during a jump in the Mont Blanc massif.

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