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The Devil’s Brew, new Greenland route for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
30/07/2010 - Alpinism
The Devil’s Brew, new Greenland route for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
From 12 to 22 July Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto of the Greenland 2010 expedition established The Devil’s Brew (850m) on Seagull wall, Greenland.
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
20/07/2010 - Alpinism
Camaleontica, new trad route in Sardinia by Larcher and Oviglia
On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the North Face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
19/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
Puigblanque (ESP) and Kim (KOR) won the 25th Rock Master Lead in Arco. Lachat (SUI) and Stöhr (AUT) were victorious in the Bouldering competition, while the Speed gold medal went to Hroza (CZE) and He (CHN) and Team Spedwas won by China. The Lead Duel was won by Ondra (CZE)...
Arco Rock Legends 2010 to Manolo, Ondra & Noguchi
18/07/2010 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2010 to Manolo, Ondra & Noguchi
On Saturday 18/07/2010 the V Arco Rock Legends was celebrated in the Arco Climbing Stadium. Adam Ondra received the Salewa Rock Award while Akiyo Noguchi won the La Sportiva Competition Award. Maurizio Manolo Zanolla received the Sector Climbing Award, a new prize created by the Rock Master association.
Venere Peak tough acclimatisation for Barmasse, Bernasconi and Panzeri prior to the North Face of Gasherbrum I
13/07/2010 - Alpinism
Venere Peak tough acclimatisation for Barmasse, Bernasconi and Panzeri prior to the North Face of Gasherbrum I
Hervé Barmasse, Daniele Bernasconi and Mario Panzeri have carried out the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Venere Peak (6300m), China. A difficult acclimatisation before the next adventure, the virgin North Face of Gasherbrum 1.
Rock Master 2010, the athletes in the special Arco pre-World Championship
09/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010, the athletes in the special Arco pre-World Championship
The worldclass version of the Rock Master takes place in Arco from 16 -18 July. A quick glance at the 170+ athletes taking part in this important event which acts as a pre-event to the IFSC Climbing World Championship 2011.
Nalle Hukkataival hard boulders in Norway
08/07/2010 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival hard boulders in Norway
Nalle Hukkataival from Finland has established two FB8B and flashed two Fb8A+ in Norway.
El Capitan triple linkup by Alex Honnold and Sean Leary
06/07/2010 - Climbing
El Capitan triple linkup by Alex Honnold and Sean Leary
Alex Honnold and Sean Leary have climbed three routes on El Capitan in Yosemite, The Nose, Salathé Wall and Lurking Fear in 24 hours.
Solo per vecchi guerrieri by Iker and Eneko Pou
01/07/2010 - Climbing
Solo per vecchi guerrieri by Iker and Eneko Pou
Iker Pou has carried out the fifth ascent of Solo per vecchi guerrieri, the beautiful and difficult route first ascended by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla on the N Face of "El Colaz" in the Vette Feltrine (Dolomites).
The Indian Face repeated by Dave MacLeod
29/06/2010 - Climbing
The Indian Face repeated by Dave MacLeod
Scottish climber Dave MacLeod has made the fourth ascent of The Indian Face, E9 6c on Cloggy, Wales.
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...
Greenland ahoy for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
18/06/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland ahoy for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
Climbers Nico and Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto are preparing for three month climbing trip to Greenland to explore huge virgin big walls.
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the North Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.
Tim Emmett adds E10 to Stennis Ford, Pembroke
08/06/2010 - Climbing
Tim Emmett adds E10 to Stennis Ford, Pembroke
Tim Emmett has made the first ascent of 'Muy Caliente!' E10 6c at Stennis Ford, Pembroke
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
06/06/2010 - Competitions
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
More than 500 young athletes aged 5 -13 from 20 different countries made the ninth edition of the Rock Junior a success. Chris Sharma, one of the greatest climbers of all times, paid homage to the world's biggest youth climbing event.

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