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Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
06/04/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
The report by Belgian alpinist Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll who this season has established two new rock climbs on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia: Chalten Sin Clecas (Chalten without tickmarks) with Mecha Rocamora and Chalten sin Chapas” (Chalten without bolts) with Matías Korten.
T’enflammes pas, new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in Mont Blanc massif
02/04/2021 - Alpinism
T’enflammes pas, new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in Mont Blanc massif
Aymeric Clouet, Mathieu Maynadier and Charles Noirot have established T’enflammes pas, a new mixed climb on Flammes de Pierre in the Mont Blanc massif.
Dogma climbed at Rein in Taufers by Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner
19/03/2021 - Alpinism
Dogma climbed at Rein in Taufers by Simon Gietl, Mark Oberlechner
On Saturday 30 January 2021 the mountain guides Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner from the South Tyrol, Italy, made the first ascent of a difficult mixed climb at Rein in Taufers called Dogma.
Franco Nicolini, Davide Galizzi climb new route in heart of Brenta Dolomites
17/03/2021 - Alpinism
Franco Nicolini, Davide Galizzi climb new route in heart of Brenta Dolomites
On Punta Centrale dei Sfulmini in the Brenta Dolomites Franco Nicolini and Davide Galizzi have made the first ascent of the rock climb La Piccozza nella Roccia. Nicolini reports about the route dedicated to his friend Giuliano Stenghel.
Corrado Pesce, Will Sim repeat Petit Dru SW Pillar in Mont Blanc massif
01/03/2021 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce, Will Sim repeat Petit Dru SW Pillar in Mont Blanc massif
Alpinists Corrado Korra Pesce and Will Sim have repeated Voie des Papas / Via Bonatti on the SW Pillar of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
26/02/2021 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.
Tom Bolger frees Frenesí 9a/+ at Margalef in Spain
23/02/2021 - Climbing
Tom Bolger frees Frenesí 9a/+ at Margalef in Spain
British rock climber Tom Bolger is on a roll and has made the first ascent of Frenesí, a 9a/+ sport climb at Margalef in Spain.
Drus West Face: new route climbed live by Gmhm
20/02/2021 - Alpinism
Drus West Face: new route climbed live by Gmhm
French mountaineers Thomas Auvaro, Léo Billon, Jordi Noguere and Sébastien Ratel belonging to the Chamonix High Mountain Military Group are currently establishing a new route up the West Face of the Drus in the Mont Blanc massif. The climb is being broadcast in live streaming.
Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India
19/02/2021 - Alpinism
Nubra Valley Ice Climbing Festival in India
The report about the first Ice Climbing Meeting that took place in January in the wonderful Nubra Valley, India. This event proved to be important, above all because it’s the first of its kind in the Ladakh region. The report by Ladakh Nomad Expeditions.
Sean Villanueva completes astounding solo of Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia
12/02/2021 - Alpinism
Sean Villanueva completes astounding solo of Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia
Belgian climber Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll has made a solo ascent of the Fitz Roy Traverse in Patagonia. This is one of the most important climbs ever carried out in Patagonia.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Sorejina at Sennesspitze in the Dolomites climbed by Manuel and Simon Gietl
18/01/2021 - Alpinism
Sorejina at Sennesspitze in the Dolomites climbed by Manuel and Simon Gietl
South Tyrolean alpinists Simon and Manuel Gietl have added a new mixed climb to Sennesspitze (Muntejela de Sénes) in the Dolomites by establishing Sorejina (WI5+, M6, 50°, 700m).
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
12/01/2021 - Alpinism
Luza Peak in Nepal first ascent by young Sherpa team
The 5726m high pyramidal Luza Peak in the Khumbu region of the Nepal was climbed for the first time at the end of 2020 by a young trio of Sherpa comprised of Pemba Sharwa Sherpa, Urken Sherpa and Lhakpa Gyaljen Sherpa. Pemba Sherpa reports about the ascent and gives interesting...
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
08/01/2021 - Alpinism
Stalingrad, new Kingline in Karwendel climbed by David Bruder, Martin Feistl
On 20 and 21 December 2020 German alpinists David Bruder and Martin Feistl made the first ascent of Stalingrad, a 1000m route between Grubenkarspitze (2663m) and Plattenspitze (2492m) in the Karwendel massif in Austria.
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
28/12/2020 - Climbing
Titanium climbing bolts appeal by Maurizio Oviglia for Sardinia's seaside crags
Italian climber and new router Maurizio Oviglia once again focuses on the safety of climbing bolts and anchors on sport climbs in seaside environments and has launched a campaign to raise funds in order to re-bolt some marine crags in Sardinia with titanium bolts.
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
26/12/2020 - Alpinism
New Age Raiders discovered by Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson on Bidean nam Bian in Scotland
On Church Buttress at Bidean nam Bian in Glen Coe, Scotland, Greg Boswell and Callum Johnson have made the first ascent of New Age Raiders, an impressively steep 2-pitch winter climb graded IX 9.