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Link Sar in Pakistan, Graham Zimmerman’s film now online
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Link Sar in Pakistan, Graham Zimmerman’s film now online
The film Link Sar directed by Graham Zimmerman, which documents the first ascent of the 7041m peak in Pakistan’s Karakorum, first ascended in 2019 by Zimmerman with Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Chris Wright.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
Robbie Phillips, Dave MacLeod climb new E10 at Duntelchaig in Scotland
05/10/2021 - Climbing
Robbie Phillips, Dave MacLeod climb new E10 at Duntelchaig in Scotland
Robbie Phillips has established 'What we do in the shadows’, a new E10 7a which adds a direct finish to Nosferatu at Duntelchaig in Scotland. Shortly after the first ascent Dave MacLeod completed the second ascent.
Stellar Laura Rogora makes first repeat of 9b/+ Erebor at Arco in Italy
03/10/2021 - Climbing
Stellar Laura Rogora makes first repeat of 9b/+ Erebor at Arco in Italy
Laura Rogora has made the first repeat of Erebor at the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco. Graded 9b/+ and established by Stefano Ghisolfi in January 2021, it is considered the most difficult sport climb in Italy. This is the first time a woman has climbed a route...
Sean Bailey sends Bibliographie at Céüse
30/09/2021 - Climbing
Sean Bailey sends Bibliographie at Céüse
On 24 September 2021 American climber Sean Bailey repeated Bibliographie 9b+ at Céüse in France.
Neil Gresham climbs Lexicon, desperate E11 trad climb at Pavey Ark
17/09/2021 - Climbing
Neil Gresham climbs Lexicon, desperate E11 trad climb at Pavey Ark
British rock climber Neil Gresham has made the first ascent of Lexicon at Pavey Ark in England. Graded E11 7a, it checks in as one of the hardest trad climbs in Great Britain.
New Matterhorn South Face route by François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina, Francesco Ratti
15/09/2021 - Alpinism
New Matterhorn South Face route by François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina, Francesco Ratti
Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Marco Farina and Francesco Ratti have established L’amitié, a new route on the south face of the Matterhorn dedicated to Roberto Ferraris.
Michaela Kiersch magical on Dreamcatcher at Squamish
13/09/2021 - Climbing
Michaela Kiersch magical on Dreamcatcher at Squamish
American climber Michaela Kiersch has repeated Dreamcatcher at Squamish, Canada.
Città di Uruk in Val Sapin, climbing at the historic crag above Courmayeur in Italy
13/09/2021 - Climbing
Città di Uruk in Val Sapin, climbing at the historic crag above Courmayeur in Italy
Città di Uruk is a historic crag located in Val Sapin above Courmayeur in Italy. With over 30 climbs of all grades, this is reputed to be the best cliff in the entire Aosta Valley. This year the crag hosts the Tiro Lead competition, with € 1,000 prize money for...
Solveig Korherr climbs La cabane au Canada, her first 9a at Rawyl in Switzerland
12/09/2021 - Climbing
Solveig Korherr climbs La cabane au Canada, her first 9a at Rawyl in Switzerland
German rock climber Solveig Korherr has climbed her first 9a, La cabane au Canada at Rawyl in Switzerland.
Paige Claassen seizes Dreamcatcher 9a in Squamish
06/09/2021 - Climbing
Paige Claassen seizes Dreamcatcher 9a in Squamish
American rock climber Paige Claassen has made the first female ascent of Dreamcatcher, the iconic 9a at Squamish in Canada first ascended by Chris Sharma in 2005.
Juho Knuuttila, Misha Mishin climb Storskiva on Lofoten's Moskensøya Island in Norway
31/08/2021 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila, Misha Mishin climb Storskiva on Lofoten's Moskensøya Island in Norway
Juho Knuuttila (26) from Finland and Misha Mishin (27) from Russia have established Ørneeggen, the first climb up the West Face of Mt. Storskiva (848m) on the island of Moskensøya off the Lofoten islands in Norway. Knuuttila reports about the 'true adventure climbing' they experienced in August 2021.
Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
26/08/2021 - Alpinism
Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Jean-Louis Wertz are currently climbing in Greenland with Aleksej Jaruta from Sweden. After having reached the island by sailing boat from France, the team managed to establish the first route up the steep Siren Tower.
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
23/08/2021 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.
What are the holds like on a 9c? Stefano Ghisolfi analyses Bibliographie
22/08/2021 - Climbing
What are the holds like on a 9c? Stefano Ghisolfi analyses Bibliographie
Stefano Ghisolfi analyses the holds of Bibliographie, the 9c freed at Céüse in summer 2020 by Alexander Megos,
Dolomites Civetta coup: Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo climb Colonne d’Ercole in a day
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites Civetta coup: Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo climb Colonne d’Ercole in a day
Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo have climbed Colonne d’Ercole (1200m, IX) on Mount Civetta in the Dolomites onsight and in a single day. A few days earlier the French mountaineers had teamed up with Silvia Loreggian, climbing Specchio di Sara with the starting variant Coitus Interruptus and the Larcher-Vigiani (8a...

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