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Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
From 26 - 28 August 2016 the Russian mountaineers Maxim Foygel and Roman Gorodischenskiy made the first ascent of 'Via RoMa' (ED 1350m 6a A2), a new route on the East Face of Pointe Walker (4208m), Grandes Jorasses (Alps). The new route shares the start of Pilastro Rosso and finishes...
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview
21/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič: the Broad Peak and Gasherbrum IV North Summit interview
Interview with Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič after their ascents of Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m).
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
19/10/2016 - Environment
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
Nathalie Bini shares her experience in a refugee camp at Vasilika (Thessaloniki, Greece) and appeals to everyone, climber and non climbers, to help make a little magic.
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climb virgin North Face of Sersank Peak in Indian Himalaya
11/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climb virgin North Face of Sersank Peak in Indian Himalaya
British mountaineers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders have successfully ascended the hitherto unclimbed North Face of Sersank Peak (Shib Shankar), a 6100m high mountain in the Indian Himalayas during an 8 day round trip.
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
06/10/2016 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...
Dún Briste sea stack, second ascent by Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska
05/10/2016 - Climbing
Dún Briste sea stack, second ascent by Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska
At the end of August 2016 Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska made what is believed to be only the second ascent of the iconic Dún Briste sea stack at Downpatrick Head, Ireland.
Cima Grande di Lavaredo Spanish Route, second free ascent by Jacek Matuszek e Łukasz Dudek
23/09/2016 - Alpinism
Cima Grande di Lavaredo Spanish Route, second free ascent by Jacek Matuszek e Łukasz Dudek
On 31 August 2016 Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek made the second free ascent of the difficult Spanish Route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Markus Pucher, Cerro Pollone alone and in winter in Patagonia
21/09/2016 - Alpinism
Markus Pucher, Cerro Pollone alone and in winter in Patagonia
Interview with Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher after his solo winter ascent of Cerro Pollone in Patagonia.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Pou brothers and Colom claim first free ascent of Marejada Fuerza 6
06/09/2016 - Alpinism
Naranjo de Bulnes, Pou brothers and Colom claim first free ascent of Marejada Fuerza 6
In September 2016 Eneko Pou and Iker Pou teamed up with Neus Colom to make the first free ascent of Marejada Fuerza 6 (8a+, 500m) Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa, Spain.
Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
17/08/2016 - Events
Ueli Steck at Courmayeur's Passione Verticale 2016
On Wednesday 17 August Switzerland’s Ueli Steck, one of the most talented mountaineers in the world, will take to the stage at Passione Verticale, the classic summer festival the town of Courmayeur dedicates every year to alpinism and the mountains. The evening begins at 21:15 and will be hosted by...
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
21/07/2016 - Alpinism
Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea have left us
The bodies of Italian alpinists Roberto Iannilli and Luca D’Andrea were retrieved today from the North Face of Mt. Camicia (Gran Sasso massif), Italy. Iannilli, from Ladispoli, was 62 years old, while D’Andrea came from Sulmona and was 51 years old. Both were expert alpinists. Iannilli was definitely one of...
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
11/07/2016 - Climbing
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
Swiss climbers Louis Piguet, who has shown a particular interested in the problem about replacing rusty anchors and corroded AISI 304 stainless steel bolts, continues his titanic work of re-equipping the marine crags along Sardinia’s coastline.
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Touching the void - immortal stories
09/06/2016 - Alpinism
Touching the void - immortal stories
PlayAlpinismo films: Touching the void by Kevin Macdonald recounts the dramatic and immortal story of Joe Simpson and Simon Yates and their first ascent of the West Face of Siula Grande (Andes, Peru). A film and a story about the greatness of friendship and life. The review by Vinicio Stefanello.
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
07/06/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley has made the first solo ascent the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. While the ascent required just 12 hours 29 minutes from the Bergschrund to the summit, the descent proved a harrowing ordeal that turned out to be one of the most...
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
01/06/2016 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi III: two ascents in the Indian Himalaya
An expedition composed of the mountaineers Corrado Pesce, Damien Tomasi, Martin Elias, Sebastien Corret, Fanny Tomasi-Schmutz and Elodie Le Comte has repeated two routes on Bhagirathi III (6454m) in the Indian Himalayas. While the men repeated Estrella Impossible, the women repeated the Scottish Pillar. Corrado Korra Pesce provides the expedition...

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