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New Civetta Dolomites climb by Davide Cassol, Luca Vallata
01/11/2019 - Alpinism
New Civetta Dolomites climb by Davide Cassol, Luca Vallata
Last summer Belluno alpinists Luca Vallata and Davide Cassol made the first ascent Capitani di Ventura, a big new multi-pitch climb that reaches the summit of Punta Civetta in the Dolomites. Established after four attempts, it breaches difficulties up to VIII-/A1 and tackles a line between Chimera Verticale and the...
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
24/10/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer
30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.
Tengi Ragi Tau virgin West Face climbed alpine style by Alan Rousseau, Tino Villanueva
23/10/2019 - Alpinism
Tengi Ragi Tau virgin west face climbed alpine style by Alan Rousseau, Tino Villanueva
American alpinists Tino Villanueva and Alan Rousseau have made a rare ascent of Tengi Ragi Tau (6,938m) in Nepal. Climbing alpine style for 5 days, the duo established a new route up the hitherto unclimbed west face.
Geronimo up Torre Spinotti, new rock climb in Italy's Carnic Alps
21/10/2019 - Alpinism
Geronimo up Torre Spinotti, new rock climb in Italy's Carnic Alps
Czech alpinist Michal Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalová have established Geronimo, a new multi-pitch climb up the west face of Torre Spinotti ( Coglians - Cjanevate) in the Carnic Alps, Italy.
Koyo Zom West Face first ascent by Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton
09/10/2019 - Alpinism
Koyo Zom west face first ascent by Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton
British mountaineers Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton have climbed the virgin west face of Koyo Zom (6877m), the highest mountain in the Hindu Raj range in Pakistan. The two were part of a greater expedition including John Crook, Uisdean Hawthorn and Will Sim.
Federica Mingolla, Edoardo Saccaro climb new big wall up Nalumasortoq, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland
08/10/2019 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla, Edoardo Saccaro climb new big wall up Nalumasortoq, Tasermiut Fjord, Greenland
On the hitherto unclimbed south face of Middle Pillar of Nalumasortoq above the Tasermiut Fjord in Greenland Italian climbers Federica Mingolla and Edoardo Saccaro have established La Cura, a new big wall with difficulties up to 7b+/A2.
Bhagirathi IV, Matteo Della Bordella reports on successful West Face expedition
30/09/2019 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi IV, Matteo Della Bordella reports on successful west face expedition
Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella provides the details about the successful climbing expedition to the Garhwal Himalaya in India where with Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo he made the first ascent of the coveted west face of Bhagirathi IV (6193m). And miraculously escaped scary rockfall a few days earlier.
Bhagirathi IV West Face climbed by Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera, Matteo De Zaiacomo
19/09/2019 - Alpinism
Bhagirathi IV west face climbed by Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera, Matteo De Zaiacomo
The Italian Ragni di Lecco mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo have succeeded in climbing the virgin west face of Bhagirathi IV (6193m) in the Indian Himalayas. A great adventure and a great climb!
New multi-pitch up Petit Mont Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
11/09/2019 - Alpinism
New multi-pitch up Petit Mont Greuvetta in Mont Blanc massif
Camillo Bussolati reports about the first ascent of Lloverà y yo verè, a new rock climb up the west face of Petit Mont Greuvetta in the Mont Blanc massif, established in summer 2019 with Matteo Castellini and Francesco Crescini.
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
09/09/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone, Luka Stražar ascents honoured by Piolets d’Or 2019
The solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West carried out by Hansjörg Auer, the solo ascent of Lunag Ri carried out by David Lama and the ascent of Latok 1 completed by Aleš Česen, Tom Livingstone and Luka Stražar are the ascents honoured by the Piolet d’Or 2019.The press release of...
Goodbye to Zsolt Török, one of Romania's foremost mountaineers
03/09/2019 - Alpinism
Goodbye to Zsolt Török, one of Romania's foremost mountaineers
Vlad Capusan remembers his friend and climbing partner Zsolt Török, one of Romania’s foremost mountaineers who lost his life in a climbing accident on 14 August 2019 in the Făgăraș mountains.
Simon Messner and Barbara Vigl snap up their Ice Age on Punta del Pin, Dolomites
18/08/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Messner and Barbara Vigl snap up their Ice Age on Punta del Pin, Dolomites
On 15 August 2019 South Tyrolean alpinist Simon Messner and Austria's Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Ice Age up Punta del Pin in the Prags Dolomites.
Siebe Vanhee climbs Gastlosen testpiece Yeah Man
17/08/2019 - Alpinism
Siebe Vanhee climbs Gastlosen testpiece Yeah Man
Belgium’s Siebe Vanhee has made a fast ascent of  Yeah Man, the 8b+ multi-pitch alpine sports climb up Gran Pfad in Switzerland’s Gastlosen mountain range.
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru
12/08/2019 - Alpinism
Márek Holeček, Radoslav Groh climb new route up Huandoy North in Peru
Climbing alpine style, Márek Holeček and Radoslav Groh have established a new route up Huandoy North (6360m) in Peru.
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
17/07/2019 - Alpinism
Roger Schaeli, Stephan Siegrist establish Silberrücken up Jungfrau in Switzerland
Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli have made the first ascent of Silberrücken up Rotbrätt on the west face of Jungfrau. With difficulties up to 8a+, all pitches have been freed individually and a one-day redpoint is still outstanding.
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
12/07/2019 - Interviews
Robert Leistner climbs cutting edge traditional Elbsandstein masterpiece
German rock climber Robert Leistner has made the first free ascent of Vertreibung der letzten Idealisten up the Nonnengärtner tower in the Elbsandstein massif in Germany. Graded 12a, or French 8c, this is now the most difficult climb in the German part of the Elbsandsteingebirge. What makes this climb remarkable...

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