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The World’s Hardest Ice Climb? Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls by Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl
27/02/2020 - Alpinism
The World’s Hardest Ice Climb? Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls by Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl
The video of Mission to Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada, established earlier this month by Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl. This is the first climb ever to be graded WI 13 and as such checks in as the hardest ice climb in the world.
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
26/02/2020 - Alpinism
Young French FFME team with Arnaud Petit establish new route in Wadi Rum, Jordan
French mountain guide Arnaud Petit and Jonathan Crison have led a young FFME expedition to Jordan where they established a new route up Jebel Rum in the Wadi Rum massif. Voie du Coeur (430m, 7c+ max, 7b obligatory) was first ascended with Eline Le Menestrel, Solène Amoros, Eloi Peretti, Romaric...
Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia: 40º Gruppo Ragni route finally repeated
25/02/2020 - Alpinism
Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia: 40º Gruppo Ragni route finally repeated
Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella reports about his repeat with Matteo Bernasconi and Matteo Pasquetto of the 40º Gruppo Ragni di Lecco climb on the north face of Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia, established in 1986 by Mario Panzeri, Paolo Vitali, Marco Della Santa and Daniele Bosisio. While this is likely...
Robbie Phillips sends shallow water solo of Edinburgh bridge crack
24/02/2020 - Climbing
Robbie Phillips sends shallow water solo of Edinburgh bridge crack
Buildering in Scotland: after the first ascent of a hand crack below a bridge in Edinburgh, Robbie Philips has now returned to make a free solo ascent.
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva climb new route on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
19/02/2020 - Alpinism
Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva climb new route on Cerro Standhardt in Patagonia
On Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia Belgian climbers Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll have made the first ascent the mixed climb El Flechazo (850m, 7b, M3, WI5+).
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
17/02/2020 - Alpinism
Greg Boswell, Jeff Mercier discover unclimbed ice around Lofoten and Tennevoll in Norway
Scottish mountaineer Greg Boswell reports about his winter climbing trip with France's Jeff Mercier to the Lofoten area in Norway which resulted in a series of new ice and mixed climbs.
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
13/02/2020 - Alpinism
Ragni di Lecco add new route to Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia
On the north face of the Aguja Standhardt in Patagonia the Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and Matteo Pasquetto have established Il dado è tratto. The new route provides 'spectacular' climbing. Della Bordella reports directly from El Chalten.
Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl complete Mission To Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada
12/02/2020 - Alpinism
Tim Emmett, Klemen Premrl complete Mission To Mars at Helmcken Falls in Canada
At the Helmcken Falls in Canada Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have made the first ascent of Mission To Mars, a hugely overhanging ice climb they have graded WI 13.
Robbie Phillips climbs perfect bridge crack in Edinburgh, Scotland
10/02/2020 - Climbing
Robbie Phillips climbs perfect bridge crack in Edinburgh, Scotland
Buildering in Edinburgh: Scottish climber Robbie Phillips has climbed a perfect hand crack below a bridge in Edinburgh, Scotland.
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
02/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, new east face climb by Alessandro Bau, Giovanni Zaccaria
On the east face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia Italian mountain guides Alessandro Baù and Giovanni Zaccaria have made the first ascent of Scrumble de manzana.
Matteo Della Bordella repeats Itaca nel Sole in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
27/01/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella repeats Itaca nel Sole in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
Italian alpinist Matteo Della Bordella has repeated Itaca nel Sole on the Caporal in Valle Orco. Established in 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello, this multi-pitch route was freed in 2003 by Cristian Brenna.
Hugo Parmentier powers up his first 9b, Eagle-4 at St. Léger du Ventoux
22/01/2020 - Climbing
Hugo Parmentier powers up his first 9b, Eagle-4 at St. Léger du Ventoux
21-year-old French climber Hugo Parmentier has made the first repeat of Eagle-4, the 9b sport climb at St. Léger du Ventoux in France freed by Adam Ondra in 2018.
Cédric Lachat sends sixth 9a+, Pachamama at Oliana
21/01/2020 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat sends sixth 9a+, Pachamama at Oliana
Swissman Cédric Lachat has repeated Pachamama, the 9a+ established by Chris Sharma in 2009 at Oliana in Spain.
Gabriele Moroni climbing Demencia Senil, uncut video of Margalef redpoint
16/01/2020 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni climbing Demencia Senil, uncut video of Margalef redpoint
Uncut climbing video: Gabriele Moroni sending Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef in Spain.
Elias Iagnemma completes historic Grotti project, Ultimo Tango in Zagarolo
07/01/2020 - Climbing
Elias Iagnemma completes historic Grotti project, Ultimo Tango in Zagarolo
At the Italian crag Grotti, Elias Iagnemma has made the first ascent of an old project made famous by local climber Alessandro Lamberti, Ultimo Tango in Zagarolo. Iagnemma suggests the grade 9a/+
Michi Wohlleben calm, cool and collected on Psychogramm, 8b+ trad slab
18/12/2019 - Climbing
Michi Wohlleben calm, cool and collected on Psychogramm, 8b+ trad slab
German climber Michi Wohlleben has repeated Psychogramm, the 8b+ trad climb at the Bürser Platte in Austria, first ascended in 2014 by Alex Luger.