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Michele Caminati survives gritstone ground-fall in England
30/03/2017 - Climbing
Michele Caminati survives gritstone ground-fall in England
Michele Caminati, an expert of England’s gritstone, fell to the ground while climbing The Elder Statesman at Curbar in the Peak District. Miraculously, the Italian walked away with nothing more than a fractured wrist and heel.
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
29/03/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Franchini brothers climb new route on Cerro Penitentes
Climbing in Patagonia: on 26/01/2017 Tomas Franchini and his brother Silvestro Franchini made a quick, alpine style first ascent up Cerro Penitentes. The new route is called ‘El Mariano’ (750m, 85° M4).
Pedra Longa in Sardinia / The Spigolo dell'Ospitalità rock climb
13/03/2017 - Climbing
Pedra Longa in Sardinia / The Spigolo dell'Ospitalità rock climb
The multi-pitch rock climb Spigolo dell’Ospitalità was first ascended in 1982 by Umberto Marampon up the beautiful Pedra Longa tower in Sardinia. Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu recently made a rare, possibly even first, repeat of this climb above the coast of Baunei.
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
03/03/2017 - Alpinism
Jeff Lowe awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière 2017
American alpinist Jeff Lowe has been awarded the Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize will be assigned during the 25th edition of the mountaineering prize that will be celebrated in Grenoble, France, from 12 - 15 April. In the past the prize has been awarded to Walter Bonatti, Reinhold...
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
07/02/2017 - Alpinism
Patagonia Cerro Murallón, new East Face climb by Ragni di Lecco
Mountaineering: Italian alpinists Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci have made the first ascent of the East Face of Cerro Murallon (Patagonia). This is the second Ragni di Lecco success after the historic first ascent, carried out by Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Aldè and Paolo Vitali.
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
02/02/2017 - Alpinism
Troll Wall, first solo winter ascent by Marek Raganowicz in Norway
Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).
Happy Ending, new icefall in Val Trementina, Paganella
24/01/2017 - Alpinism
Happy Ending, new icefall in Val Trementina, Paganella
Alessio Miori reports about the first ascent of Happy Ending, a new ice climb in Val Trementina (Paganella, Italy), first ascended on on 22-23/12/2016 together with the Luca Caldini, Giordano Faletti, Mattia Piffer and Stefano Vulcan.
New Dolomites icefall La Pissa climbed by Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós
17/01/2017 - Alpinism
New Dolomites icefall La Pissa climbed by Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós
On 04/01/2017 Luca Vallata and Santiago Padrós made what is likely to be the first ascent of La Pissa (WI6, M9?, 105m), the obvious icefall at Termine di Cadore, Dolomites.
Malga Spora: another Brenta Dolomites climbing gem
29/12/2016 - Climbing
Malga Spora: another Brenta Dolomites climbing gem
Alessio Tait introduces the stunning crag Malga Spora at Croz of Giovan. Another little sport climbing gem in the Brenta Dolomites.
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
06/12/2016 - Alpinism
Eiger: Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski climb new route up North Face
Mountaineering: from 29 November to 6 December 2016 Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of 'Titanic' (A3/M5/6b, 1800m), a new climb up the North Face of the Eiger (Switzerland).
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
25/11/2016 - Interviews
Adam Ondra: the Dawn Wall El Capitan interview
Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and...
Tsirku, skiing and snowboarding’s final frontier
Tsirku, skiing and snowboarding’s final frontier
The three episodes of 'Tsirku', ie skiing and snowboarding that defy imagination above the Tsirku Glacier in Canada, featuring Ralph Backstrom, Hadley Hammer and Samuel Anthamatten.
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first to be graded 8a at Arco, but also to show...
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
11/10/2016 - Events
Ulju Mountain Film Festival, right first time in South Korea
From September 30 to October 4, 2016, the first Uiju Mountain Film Festival took place in South Korea. Italian mountaineer Reinhold Messner was the Honorary guest, while 24 films took part in the competition. The Festival Grand Prize was awarded to Jurek by Paweł Wysoczański and the inclusion of our...

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