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Climbing the first routes in the Tagas Valley, Karakorum
Photo by Jean-Louis Wertz
Tagas Valley, Karakorum: the 2-day approach
Photo by Jean-Louis Wertz
Uexplored mountains in the Tagas Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan
Photo by Jean-Louis Wertz
Mathieu Maynadier, Carlos Molina, Nicolas Favresse and Jean-Louis Wertz departing for the Tagas Valley, Karakorum
Photo by Jean-Louis Wertz

Mathieu Maynadier, lucky escape after rockfall in Tagas Valley, Karakorum

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On 6 August 2018 French mountaineer Mathieu Maynadier was hit by rockfall while on an climbing expedition in the Tagas Valley in Pakistan’s Karakorum with Nicolas Favresse, Carlos Molina and Jean-Louis Wertz. Maynadier was taken to Skardu military hospital by helicopter where his condition is far better than initially feared. He will be repatriated to France this week.

"More worries than injuries: concussion and a battred arm. I should be repatriated at the end of the week." With this short text message sent to the newspaper Le Dauphine French mountain guide Mathieu Maynadier put an end to his August 6 climbing accident in the Tagas Valley in tvhe Karakorum (Pakistan).

Maynadier had traveled to Pakistan with Belgium’s Nicolas Favresse, Argentina’s Carlos Molina and Belgian photographer Jean-Louis Wertz in order to climb virgin peaks in the unexplored Tagas Valley. The four reached the valley at the end of July after a two-day approach with 28 porters and established base camp at 4900 meters just below a very impressive pillar. "It feels incredibly special to be the first foreigners to enter this valley and set our eyes of climbers on its mountains" wrote Favresse in an email on 31 July.

The accident occurred on the 5th day of establishing a new climb, during the descent after the team had successfully reached the summit. The climbers were abseiling when the Frenchman was hit by rocks at 5500 meters.

In an email to planetmountain.com Perrine Vangilve, who is coordinating the expedition communication, wrote: "The guys were scared because they found Maynadier hanging on the end of his rope, unconscious and full of blood. So there was obviously a little panic."After the initial fright Maynadier regained consciousness and, helped by his climbing partners, managed to descend to the base of the wall. He was airlifted to Skardu military hospital from where he received the good news about his conditions. He will return to France this week.

34 year-old Maynadier is one of France's leading young alpinists. In 2010 the Briançon guide made the first ascent of Lunag II (6830m) in Nepal together with Max Belleville, Mathieu Detrae and Seb Ratel, an ascent which received a nomination for the Piolet d'Or 2011. In 2012 he established a new route on Latok II with Antoine Bletton, Pierre Labbre and Sebastien Ratel, in 2013 he made the first ascent of the South Face of Gauri Shankar in Nepal with Mathieu Détrie, Pierre Labbre and Jérôme Para, while in 2015 he teamed up with Mathieu Détrie, Julien Dusserre and Pierre Labbre to forge a new route up Mount Dazampa Tse in Nepal.

Bonjour à tous il m’est arrivé un petit pépin qui se fini pas trop mal. Il y a deux jours alors que nous venions de faire le sommet de notre voie j’ai été percuté à la tête et au bras pas une écaille qui est tombée. Je n’ai aucun souvenir de l’accident mais j’étais plus bas que les autres en train de faire un relais et ils ont crié mais la pierre m’est venue droit dessus. Ils m’ont retrouvé inanimé pendu à la corde .... finalement ils ont réussi à me ramener aux portaledge où il s ont déclenché des secours qui son arrivé le lendemain midi et j’ai pu être déposé à l’hôpital de Skardû’ je m’en tire avec une belle commotion cérébrale et un bras abîmé... je viens d’arrivé à Islamabad ou je suis soigné à l’hôpital militaire CMH. Encore un peu sous le coup mais hors de danger je devrait être rapatrié dans les prochain jours à Briançon pour y faire d’autres examens. Un grand merci à @nicofavresse @_carlitosmolina @jeanlouiswertz qui m’ont pris en charge dans la paroie et se sont occupé de me redescendre dans la nuit. Du fond du cœur merci vous m’avez sauvé la vie et n’avais pas paniqué malgré les circonstances. Un grand merci à l’armée Pakistanaise qui m’a secouru et qui me soigne dans ses hôpitaux.un grand merci à @thomas Spadoni et @pierre_de_pallon qui ont répondu au tel toute la nuit dans la face quand j’étais inconscient pour rassurer et guider les autres enfin un grand merci à Shamil et @antoinepecher ainsi que la FFME qui ont facilité mon évacuation et s’occupe de mon retour en France .. enfin un grand merci à vous tous pour vos messages qui font du bien. Maintenant il va falloir se reposer un peu avant de repartir vers de nouvelles aventures.

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NEWS / Related news:
Alpinism: French climb new route up Dazampa Tse in Nepal
09.11.2015
Alpinism: French climb new route up Dazampa Tse in Nepal
On 17 October Mathieu Détrie and Julien Dusserre climbed a new route up Dazampa Tse (Dzasampatse) in the Nangpai-Gosum, Himalaya, Nepal. The next day their expedition companions Pierre Labbre and Mathieu Maynadier repeated the route.
Gauri Shankar, first ascent of the south face by the  Pamalade team
28.10.2013
Gauri Shankar, first ascent of the south face by the Pamalade team
On 23 October the French alpinists Mathieu Détrie, Mathieu Maynadier, Pierre Labbre and Jérôme Para made the first ascent of the virgin south Face of Gauri Shankar (7134m) in the Rolwaling Himal, located on the border between Nepal and Tibet.
Latok II, new French route in the Karakorum
13.06.2012
Latok II, new French route in the Karakorum
From 3 to 6 June 2012 the French alpinists Antoine Bletton, Pierre Labbre, Mathieu Maynadier and Sebastien Ratel made the first ascent of Théorême de la Peine (2000m, M5, ED-) up Latok II (7020m), Karakorum, Pakistan.
Latok II, the video of the French route Théorême de la Peine
30.07.2012
Latok II, the video of the French route Théorême de la Peine
Video of Théorême de la Peine established on Latok 2 last June in alpine style by Antoine Bletton, Pierre Labbre, Mathieu Maynadier and Sebastien Ratel.
Lunag II in Nepal by French team
22.12.2010
Lunag II in Nepal by French team
At the end of October a four-man French team comprised of Max Belleville, Mathieu Detrie, Mathieu Maynadier, and Seb Ratel carried out the first ascent of Lunag II (6830m) Nepal.

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