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La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
28/06/2011 - Climbing
La Banda del Buco, new route on Monte Pellegrino, Sicily
On 5-6 April 2011 the Italians Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori established La banda del buco (175m, 7a+/7b max, 6c+ obbl.) a new route up the North Face of Antro della Perciata on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily).
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
09/02/2011 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2011: Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park World Champions in Busteni
The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2011 took place in Busteni, Romania on 5 and 6 February and was won by the Italian Angelika Rainer and Hee Yong Park from Korea. With this vicotry the two are also crowned World Champions, and this is Rainer's second consecutive...
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
02/12/2010 - Climbing
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
02/08/2010 - Events
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
4 evenings and 4 great mountaineering stories as told by Valery Babanov, Hans Kammerlander, Silvio Mondinelli and Stevie Haston. The evenings will be introduced by Vinicio Stefanello, editor of PlanetMountain.com.
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
19/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
Puigblanque (ESP) and Kim (KOR) won the 25th Rock Master Lead in Arco. Lachat (SUI) and Stöhr (AUT) were victorious in the Bouldering competition, while the Speed gold medal went to Hroza (CZE) and He (CHN) and Team Spedwas won by China. The Lead Duel was won by Ondra (CZE)...
Lhotse new variation by Denis Urubko
18/05/2010 - Alpinism
Lhotse new variation by Denis Urubko
On 16/05/2010 the Kazakh mountaineer Denis Urubko reached the summit of Lhotse via a new variation from the South Col.
Riccardo Scarian frees two new routes in Val Noana, Dolomites
17/05/2010 - Climbing
Riccardo Scarian frees two new routes in Val Noana, Dolomites
At the end of April Riccardo Scarian freed two new routes in Val Noana (Dolomites), Shantaram 8c and Hatù per tu 8b+.
Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
14/04/2010 - Climbing
Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
Angelika Rainer and her repeat of Outsider at Cornalba.
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
23/02/2010 - Competitions
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, Canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing in its bid to become an Olympic sport.
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
15/12/2009 - Climbing
Echo Wall, Ben Nevis, by Dave Macleod
Dave Macleod analyses his ascent of Echo Wall on Ben Nevis. Climbed in July 2008, this terrifying route represented a new level of trad climbing for the 29 year old Scottish climber.
Stevie Haston repeats Greenspit in Valle del Orco
03/12/2009 - Climbing
Stevie Haston repeats Greenspit in Valle del Orco
British climber Stevie Haston has made a flash ascent of Greenspit in Valle del Orco, Italy
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
20/11/2009 - Alpinism
Lino Lacedelli goodbye
Lino Lacedelli, 84, passed away in Cortina, Italy this morning. In 1954 the member of the famous Scoiattoli mountaineering club became the first person to reach the summit of K2, together with Achille Compagnoni.
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
14/11/2009 - Alpinism
Tomaz Humar found dead on Langtang Lirung
This morning at 05.25 European time the dead body of Slovenian alpinist Tomasz Humar was recovered from 5600m on the South Face of Langtang Lirung (7230m, Nepal) by a helicopter with a rescue team comprised of Swissmen Robert Andenmatten and Simon Anthmatten (Air Zermatt) and the Italians Oskar Piazza and...
Cerro Torre expedition for David Lama and Daniel Steuerer
12/11/2009 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre expedition for David Lama and Daniel Steuerer
Interview with David Lama prior to his expedition to Cerro Torre, Patagonia together with Daniel Steuerer. The two Austrians have an important objective: to attempt the first free ascent of the famous Compressor Route.