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Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
28/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifyier Series full report
Eddie Fowke reports about the first leg of the Olympic Qualifier Series held in Shanghai 10 days ago. The second leg will take place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June and the combined results will enable the world’s best competition climbers to gain a place for the Paris...
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
22/05/2024 - Alpinism
Patagonia's Sarmiento West summit climbed alpine style by Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret, Nicolas Secul
A three-man Chilean expedition comprised of Hernán Rodríguez, Cristobal Señoret and Nicolas Secul Ojeda has successfully climbed Monte Sarmiento West summit in Patagonia. Climbed alpine style, this is only the 4th ascent of the remote peak and the first repeat of the original route up the mountain, established in 1986...
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Ievgeniia Kazbekova & Lee Dohyun lead Boulder & Lead provisional rankings
16/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Ievgeniia Kazbekova & Lee Dohyun lead Boulder & Lead provisional rankings
The opening competition day of the Olympic Qualifier Series in Boulder & Lead in Shanghai, China, concluded with Lee Dohyun and Ievgeniia Kazbekova at the top of the Boulder & Lead provisional rankings.
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
13/05/2024 - Events
The wonderful world called Melloblocco
The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley enjoyed 4 days of sun and untouched nature in Val...
Janja Garnbret makes double send of Bügeleisen Sit 8C in Maltatal, Austria
12/05/2024 - Climbing
Janja Garnbret makes double send of Bügeleisen Sit 8C in Maltatal, Austria
25-year-old Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret has made the first female ascent of "Bügeleisen sit", the 8C boulder problem freed by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014 in the Maltatal, Austria.
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
10/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco Day 3: out of batteries, game over (for today)
Friday 9 May, the third day of Melloblocco 2024 in Val Masino and Val di Mello. Lots of sun, lots of smiles and bouldering until the batteries ran out.
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
08/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco day 1: the ritual recommences
Melloblocco 2024 day 1: the biggest bouldering meeting in the world officially begins today in Northern Italy, and Val Masino and Val di Mello have already welcomed the first climbers.
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
02/05/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024, next week the world's biggest bouldering meeting in Italy's Val Masino and Val di Mello
Melloblocco 2024 is just a few days away and preparations are in full swing. From 8 to 11 May 2024 Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy, will host the largest bouldering meeting in the world.
Big new mixed climb on Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge by Tom Livingstone, Gašper Pintar
02/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge by Tom Livingstone, Gašper Pintar
From 14-17 April 2024 Britain's Tom Livingstone and Slovenia's Gašper Pintar made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'The Great Wall' on the South Face of Mt. Dickey (2909m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
30/04/2024 - Climbing
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
On the SW Face of Jebel Oujdad Iñaki Marco and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of 'Bihotz Handi' (7c/320m).
Mathew Wright wrestles with Rhapsody in Scotland
29/04/2024 - Climbing
Mathew Wright wrestles with Rhapsody in Scotland
British climber Mat Wright has repeated Rhapsody, the E11 7a trad climb located at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, first ascended by Dave Macleod in 2006.
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
27/04/2024 - Climbing
Remembering Patrick Berhault, on the 20th anniversary of his death
20 years ago today, on April 28, 2004, the great French climber and mountaineer Patrick Berhault died while attempting to complete the 82 4000ers of the Alps in 82 days. The tribute by his friend Alessandro Grillo.