4344 News found

02/10/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson makes first repeat of Shikantaza in Valle dell’Orco, Italy British climber James Pearson has made the first repeat of Shikantaza in Valle dell’Orco, Italy. Freed by Jacopo Larcher in 2021, this dangerous trad climb is located on a large boulder at the base of Sergent.

01/10/2024 - Climbing
Successful Scottish-Slovak climbing expedition adds multiple new routes to Torsukattak Fjord in Greenland A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea' (E6 6b (7b), 1350m) and 'Texture like...

01/10/2024 - Alpinism
Japanese success on virgin West Face of Thui II in Pakistan Japanese climbers Kei Narita, Yuu Nishida and Yudai Suzuki have made the first ascent of the West Face of Thui II (6523m) in Pakistan. 'Spider’s Thread' (ED+, M7, A2, 1450m) was climbed alpine style over a period of 4 days and is likely to be only the second ascent of...

26/09/2024 - Climbing
Laura Rogora redpoints Goldrake (9a+) and onsights Jedi (8b) at Cornalba The 23-year-old Italian climber Laura Rogora has made the first female ascent of Goldrake (9a+) at Cornalba, Italy, and onsighted Jedi (8b).

26/09/2024 - Climbing
Tom Randall cruises across his Autobahn in Berlin British rock climber Tom Randall has made the first ascent of Autobahn, a 60m offwidth bridge crack in Berlin, Germany.

25/09/2024 - Climbing
Big new climb on Mirror Wall in Greenland by Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker, Sean Villanueva This summer Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll established a new climb up the centre of the Mirror Wall in Greenland. The 1000m big wall is graded 8b/R/A2+ and has been called 'Ryu-shin', in memory of their friend and climbing partner Keita Kurakami.

20/09/2024 - Climbing
Another new climb up Punta Emma, Rosengarten, Dolomites In summer 2024 Mariapia Ghedina and Diego Mabboni made the first ascent of 'Sto imparando a volare' on Punta Emma in the Rosengarten / Catinaccio massif of the Dolomites, Italy.

16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.

13/09/2024 - Climbing
Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl repeat Seventh Direction (8c, 220m) in Rätikon Nemuel Feurle, Jacopo Larcher and Babara Zangerl have all repeated 'Seventh Direction' in the Rätikon, Austria. The 220m 8c multipitch on Drusenfluh was first ascended in 2022 by Alex Luger.

13/09/2024 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold receives Paul Preuss Award 2024 Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold is the twelfth recipient of the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded each year in memory of the bold Austrian alpinist. Instated in 2013, past winners are Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander, Bernd Arnold, Heinz Mariacher, Catherine Destivelle, Thomas Huber and...

10/09/2024 - Alpinism
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum Earlier this summer an international team comprised of Martin Krasňanský, Michal Mikušinec and Tomáš Buček from Slovakia and František Bulička from the Czech Republic made a rare repeat of 'Grand Diedre Desplomando' on Trango Tower, aka Nameless Tower, Karakorum, Pakistan. The 1100m big wall was first ascended in 1987 by...

09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of Drøneren

06/09/2024 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz races up and down the 4 Matterhorn ridges in under 8 hours On 01/09/2024 the Italian-Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz climbed the four ridges of the Matterhorn in 7 hours 43 minutes and 45 seconds. Furggen Ridge ascent, Hörnli Ridge descent, Zmutt Ridge ascent and Lion's Ridge descent, without external support and gear stashes on the mountain.

05/09/2024 - Climbing
Alex Megos makes Move his at Flatanger German climber Alexander Megos has made the third ascent of 'Move' at Flatanger in Norway, suggesting an upgrade to 9b/+.

05/09/2024 - Climbing
Francesco Favilli and Filippo Zanin perish in Dolomites climbing accident Francesco Favilli and Filippo Zanin, two expert Italian mountaineers, died while climbing the south face of the Marmolada, Dolomites.

03/09/2024 - Alpinism
Canzio Bivouac on Grandes Jorasses & Borelli Bivouac on Aiguille Noire de Peuterey temporarily closed The Ettore Canzio Bivouac at Colle des Grandes Jorasses in Val Ferret and the Lorenzo Borelli Bivouac at Aiguille Noire de Peuterey in Val Veny, Mont Blanc massif, are temporarily unfit for use. The Italian Academic Alpine Club, owner of the huts, provides the details.
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