Hunza Peak SE Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák

Climbing alpine style from 6 - 10 June 2025, Czech mountaineers Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of the untouched southeast face of Hunza Peak. This 7,300-meter giant in Pakistan's Karakoram was first climbed in 1991 via the southwest ridge by British climbers Mick Fowler and Caradog Jones.

Groh and Hák left base camp at 3,200m on 6 June and spent the next five days forging what has been described as a technical and dangerous route. The 2,300-meter line presented difficulties around V+ on rock, WI5 on ice, and M6+ on mixed terrain.

Weather conditions complicated bivouacs on the upper wall. Between the fourth and fifth day, Radoslav and Zdeněk spent five hours chopping a one-meter-wide ice ledge to spend an uncomfortable night - remaining tied in at all times to avoid falling during rest. The final summit push required 20 exhausting hours of climbing, followed by the long descent to base camp. The route is dedicated to Eid al-Adha, the Muslim "Festival of Sacrifice" which this year began on 6 June, commemorating Abraham's (Ibrahim in Arabic) obedience to God.

For the team, this marks yet another high-altitude success after their first ascent of Chumbu (6,859m) in 2022, their first ascent of Cholatse's west face (6,440m) in 2023, and the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in 2024.

Info: www.camp.it