Edu Marín makes first free ascent of 'Donec Perficiam' at Montrebei to complete 'Iberian Trilogy'

On 28 May Edu Marín made the first free ascent of Donec Perficiam at Montrebei in Spain, a bold 350m climb established ground-up by Isaac Cortés and Carles Brasco between 2012 to 2017. Marin worked the line, then made his ascent over a period of 5-hours together with Juan Pablo Caballero. The 39-year-old fell only once, on the final pitch, before being lowered to the belay and successfully redpointing it.

In doing so, Marin completed what has been described as the Iberian Trilogy. Inspired by the Alpine Trilogy first climbed by Stefan Glowacz in 2001 and repeated by Marin a few years ago, this is comprised of another two cutting-edge alpine climbs on the Iberian Peninsula, notable for their difficulty and the ethics of their first ascents. These are Orbayu at Pico Urriellu / El Naranjo de Bulnes, freed by Iker Pou and Eneko Pou and repeated by Marin repeated with his father Novato Marin on 5 July 2015, and Arco Iris at Montserrat established by Armand Ballard and freed by Marin, once again with his father, on 8 October 2020.

Marin explained "On May 28th, I completed the free ascent of “Donec Perficiam”, an 8b+/8c, 350-meter multi-pitch route on the Aragón Wall of Montrebei — 8 years after it was first established by Isaac Cortés and Carles Brasco from 2012 to 2017.

This bold route was originally opened ground-up, with an ethical and uncompromising approach. They faced potential falls while drilling bolts, all to create the most difficult climbing line possible in the gorge. Their climbing style and vision made a lasting impression on me.

From the moment I first tried Donec Perficiam, I knew it was something special — a true line of character, untouched and waiting. Life and other climbing dreams intervened: an expedition to Pakistan, the launch of my gym, and more. But the idea never left me.

This spring, I returned. Throughout April and May, I committed myself fully to the line. To avoid the scorching sun, I climbed mostly in the afternoons. On May 28th, I made the full free ascent — five hours of intense effort in hot conditions, with every pitch demanding total mental and physical presence. It was hard. It was beautiful. It was worth it.

With this ascent, I complete what I call “The Iberian Trilogy” — a personal vision that began nearly a decade ago with my repeat of Orbayu in 2015. The trilogy echoes the spirit of the legendary Alpine Trilogy — Silbergeier, End of Silence, and Des Kaisers neue Kleider — which has been a deep source of inspiration for me."

THE IBERIAN TRILOGY
Orbayu - Pico Urriellu / El Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain
Grade: 8c
Length: 500m
Marín’s Free ascent: July 5th 2015 (Climbing Partner: Novato Marin).
Established and First Ascent: Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, 2009

Arco Iris - Montserrat, Spain
Grade: 8c+
Length: 220m
Established by: Armand Ballard
First free ascent: Edu Marin on Oct 8th 2020 (Climbing Partner: Novato Marin).

Donec Perficiam -  Montrebei, Spain
Grade: 8b+/8c (7a, 8a+, 7a+, 8b+/c, 7b+, 8b, 8a, 8a)
Length: 310m
Established by: Carles Brasco, Isaac Cortés.
First free ascent: Edu Marin May 28th 2025 (Climbing Partner: Juan Pablo Caballero).

ALPINE TRILOGY
Silbergeier - Rätikon, Switzerland 8b+ (Beat Kammerlander, 1994)
End of Silence - Berchtesgaden, Germany 8b+ (Thomas Huber, 1994)
Des Kaisers neue Kleider - Wilder Kaiser, Austria 8b+ (Stefan Glowacz, 1994)