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|After just five days preparation the German Stefan Glowacz successfully redpointed "End of silence" on his first attempt. Located on the Feuerhorn, Berchtesgadener Alpen, this 8b+ is considered one of the hardest multi-pitch routes in the Alps. |
The 11 pitch "End of silence" was first climbed by Thomas Huber in 1994 and is part of a trilogy which includes Stefan Glowaczs Des Kaisers neue Kleider at the Wilder Kaiser, and Beat Kammerlanders Silbergeier, RÃ¤tikon.
All three were first ascended in 1994 and graded 8b+.
The challenge obviously consisted in climbing all three, and Glowacz, after his ascent of Silbergeier" in 1998, is now the first to have completed the trilogy.
Stefan Glowacz is currently preparing for his next expedition together with Kurt Albert, Holger Heuber and Klaus Fengler. They plan to hit Mexico in November, their objective - another Big Wall...
|The big three
Silbergeier 8b+ (Beat Kammerlander, 1994)
1. Beat Kammerlander (1st ascent), 2. Peter Schäffler, 3. Stefan Glowacz, 4. Pietro dal Pra, 5. Jörg Andreas
P1) 8b, P2) 7c+, P3) 8a+, P4) 7a, P5) 8b+, P6) 7c+.
End of silence 8b+ (Thomas Huber, 1994)
1. Thomas Huber (1st ascent), 2. Jörg Andreas, 3. Stefan Glowacz
P1) 7a+, P2) 6a, P3) 6c+, P4) 6c, P5) 7b+, P6) 7c+, P7) 7b+, P8) 8b, P9) 8b+, P10) 7c+, P11) 7a+
Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+ (Stefan Glowacz, 1994)
1. Stefan Glowacz (1st and only ascent to date)
P1) 7a, P2) 7c , P3) 8b, P4) 7b+, P5) 8b+, P6) 8a, P7) 6b, P8) 8b+, P9) 6c.
Stefan Glowacz climbing "End of silence", Feuerhorn, Berchtesgadener Alpen first climbed by Thomas Huber (photos Klaus Fengler).