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Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang (6162m) in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June and descended to base camp the next day completing a five day round trip.
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Bolivia: Italians climb new route up Rumi Mallku
On Saturday, 11/06/2016 Enrico Rosso, Pietro Sella and Antonio Zavattarelli made the first ascent of Mindfulness, a new climb up Rumi Mallku (5900m), Cordillera Real, Bolivian Andes. A few days earlier, the 'Illampu 2016' expedition members teamed up with Davide Vitale to make the first repeat of the SW Ridge...
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
29/06/2016 - Alpinism
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
Marco Bozzetta introduces Occhi d’acqua (7b, 210m), a new multi-pitch rock climb established ground-up in September 2015 together with Costante Carpella up the south face of Torre del Formenton, Val Fredda, Dolomiti. Dolomites.
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
28/06/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl & Jacopo Larcher repeat Stefan Glowacz climb in the Verdon
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have climbed Golden Shower (8b+, 150m), the multi-pitch route freed by Stefan Glowacz in 2012 in Verdon Gorge, France. Their ascent took place shortly after that of the Austrians Tobias Bitschnau and Christoph Schranz.
Maybe, chasing the Snowleopard
28/06/2016 - Alpinism
Maybe, chasing the Snowleopard
The trailer of the brief documentary that tells the story of the Piedmontese mountaineer Carlalberto Cimenti and his experience in the wild territory of the ex-Soviet Union as he attempts to receive the prestigious ‘Snow Leopard’ prize, awarded by the Russian Mountaineering Federation.
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
26/06/2016 - Competitions
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
The 2017 ISMF World Cup season contains 11 races in 5 different countries including, for the first time, Turkey. The traditional Grande Course competitions will no longer be part of the World Cup circuit.
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
25/06/2016 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter free climbs the Totem Pole Ewbank Route
The video of Sonnie Trotter climbing the Totem Pole in Tasmania via the Ewbank Route. Established by John Ewbank and Allan Keller with the use of aid in 1968, in 2009 Doug McConnell and Dean Rollins freed the individual pitches on separate days. Trotter’s ascent is the first free ascent...
Martin Keller is The Highlander at Sustenpass in Switzerland
24/06/2016 - Climbing
Martin Keller is The Highlander at Sustenpass in Switzerland
Bouldering: after a 13-year courtship verging on the obsession, Swiss climber Martin Keller has amde the first ascent of The Highlander, an 8C problem at Sustenpass in Switzerland.
Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
21/06/2016 - Alpinism
Marmolada South Face: climbing banned on Via dell’Ideale only
Following legislation issued earlier today by the Municipality of Rocca Pietore, it is forbidden to climb the route Via dell’Ideale up Punta Rocca (Punta d'Ombretta), Marmolada south face, Dolomites from 21 June to 15 July 2016.
Grivel Twin Gate carabiner wins Compasso d'Oro - ADI
20/06/2016 - Gear
Grivel Twin Gate carabiner wins Compasso d'Oro - ADI
The Grivel Twin Gate carabiner has won the prestigious award Compasso d’oro ADI 2016, category Design for the individual.
Rustam Gelmanov repeats Daniel Woods' Hypnotized Minds at RMNP
19/06/2016 - Climbing
Rustam Gelmanov repeats Daniel Woods' Hypnotized Minds at RMNP
Russian climber Rustam Gelmanov climbs Hypnotized Minds, the boulder problem put up by Daniel Woods in the Rocky mountain National Park graded 8C/8C+.
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
17/06/2016 - Climbing
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As the name suggests, the line is a huge outing through...
 Lena Herrmann first German woman to climb 8c+
16/06/2016 - Climbing
Lena Herrmann first German woman to climb 8c+
22-year-old German Lena Herrmann has climbed her first 8c+, Battle Cat in the Frankenjura. With this ascent she has become the first German woman to climb a route of this difficulty.
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
14/06/2016 - Climbing
Angelo Mio, new rock climb in Val Gadena
Alessio Roverato provides the report and topo of Angelo Mio (250m, 7a +, 6c obl), a new rock climb he established together with Angela Carrar on Monte Spitz in Val Gadena (Valsugana VI).
Hart aber Fair, new multi-pitch rock climb in the Dolomites
13/06/2016 - Climbing
Hart aber Fair, new multi-pitch rock climb in the Dolomites
Simon Gietl and Simon Oberbacher have made the first ascent of 'Hart aber Fair', a new rock climb up Piz dla Dorada, above Colfosco in Alta Badia, Dolomites
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
10/06/2016 - Alpinism
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
On 9 June 2016, the 27-year-old Italian alpinist Leonardo Comelli died while attempting the first ski descent of Laila Peak (Karakorum, Pakistan). The other expedition members Carlo Cosi, Zeno Cecon and Enrico Mosetti, are unhurt.

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