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Melloblocco 2016 and the hormonal bouldering storms
17/02/2016 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2016 and the hormonal bouldering storms
The date is set for the 13th edition Melloblocco. An invitation, bordering between fantasy and history, to join the world's biggest climbing and bouldering meeting that will take place, as ever, in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello from 5 to 8 May 2016.
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
16/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge Compressor Route: second free ascent. Interview with Mikey Schaefer
Interview with American alpinist Mikey Schaefer who, together with Andrew Rothner and Josh Wharton, carried out the second free ascent of the Southeast Ridge Compressor Route on Cerro Torre in Patagonia from 4 to 6 February 2016. The first free ascent was carried out in 2012 by David Lama and...
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
16/02/2016 - Climbing
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
Two new sports climbs by Luca Zardini: "La lavagna" (8c) and "Attila" (8b+) at Lavagna del Col Drusciè (Lago Ghedina, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites). Put in other words, Luca "Canon" Zardini and the never-ending school of rock climbing. The report by Luca Zardini.
Stefano Ghisolfi frees Dingo at Finale, Italy
15/02/2016 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi frees Dingo at Finale, Italy
At the crag Monte Sordo in Finale Ligure, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Dingo. The Turin-based climber suggests 8c+ for this project bolted by Andrea Gallo in 1992.
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
15/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard and his plan B: Pizzo Cengalo and Pizzo Badile solo one winter's morning
British alpinist Tom Ballard recounts his plan B on 30/12/2015: his winter solo ascent in a single day (in one morning) of Spigolo Vinci up Pizzo Cengalo (3369m, 400m, TD) and Via Molteni up Pizzo Badile (3308m, 400m, D+) in Val Masino (Italy).
Video: Arnaud Petit, Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior climbing in Oman
11/02/2016 - Climbing
Video: Arnaud Petit, Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior climbing in Oman
The second video of Arnaud Petit, Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior in Oman, where they climbed at Hadash and the mountain Jebel Misht.
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita voted People's Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016
10/02/2016 - Alpinism
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita voted People's Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016
Nepal's Pasang Lhamu Sherpa Akita has been nominated National Geographic People’s Choice Adventurer of the Year 2016. Apart from being a highly talented mountainer, Pasang Lhamu distinguished herself for her role in relief efforts after the country suffered a severe earthquake in April 2015.
Climbing video: Chris Sharma on Catalan Witness the fitness 8C
09/02/2016 - Climbing
Climbing video: Chris Sharma on Catalan Witness the fitness 8C
The video of American rock climber Chris Sharma on his boulder problem Catalán Witness the fitness 8C at the crag Cova de Ocell in Spain.
Angelika Rainer flashes Next Level D13 at Usine in France
09/02/2016 - Alpinism
Angelika Rainer flashes Next Level D13 at Usine in France
Italian ice climber Angelika Rainer has flashed "Next Level", a drytooling route graded D13 located at Usine in France.
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
05/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard claims world's first D15 dry tooling climb in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard has freed A Line Above the Sky at Tomorrow's World, Dolomites. If the D15 grade is confirmed, this climb weighs in as the hardest drytooling route in the world.
Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
05/02/2016 - Climbing
Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
The climbing report by French climber Arnaud Petit who in January 2016, together with Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior, established a host of new sport climbs in the Valley of Giants and Wadi Bani Khalid in Oman, before repeating routes at Hadash and on Jebel Misht.
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
04/02/2016 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre SE Ridge, or Compressor route: the ascent by Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach
From 30 - 31 January 2016 Italy’s Matteo Della Bordella and Switzerland’s Silvan Schüpbach climbed the SE Ridge (Compressor Route) of Cerro Torre (Patagonia). After the bolts were chopped by Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk in January 2012, this is the third ascent of this route. The first carried out...
Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B+ with Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona
04/02/2016 - Climbing
Luca Rinaldi boulders 8B+ with Off the Wagon in Valle Bavona
Italian climber Luca Rinaldi has repeated Off the Wagon, the boulder problem graded 8B+ located in Val Bavona, Switzerland.
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
03/02/2016 - Alpinism
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold after the Cerro Torre Traverse in day (Patagonia)
Interview with Colin Haley and Alex Honnold who on Sunday 31 January 2016 made the first repeat of the Torre Traverse in Patagonia by enchaining Cerro Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre. The American alpinists needed just 20 hours and 40 minutes from Col Standhardt to the summit...
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
02/02/2016 - Climbing
New El Diente climb at Monterrey in Mexico
From 2 - 21 December 2015 Octavio Aragon, Sergio Almada Berreta and Gareth Leah made the first ascent of El Son del Viento (5.12d, 420m) a new sports climb up the North Face of El Diente, Parque Nacional Cumbres de Monterrey, Mexico.
Alpine Wall Tour with Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek
02/02/2016 - Climbing
Alpine Wall Tour with Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek
The trailer of the Alpine Wall Tour, carried out by Polish climbers Jacek Matuszek and Łukasz Dudek on five difficult rock climbs in the Alps: End of Silence (Berchtesgaden Alps) Silbergeier (Rätikon), Des Kaisers neue Kleider (Wilder Kaiser) Brento Centro (Monte Brento), Bellavista (Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites)